uggh. -- Marcus"Hot Rod"Edell-The RevTones www.myspace.com/revtones www.revtones.net -------------- Original message -------------- From: Nick Tiberio <furyus63@xxxxxxxxxxx> > > Marcus, > > I don't think anything is easy on our cars, and just about everything > takes effort in thought and plannning. > > I converted my '63 Fury from power drum/drum to manual disc/drum for > safety. The easy part is contacting a vendor like Master Power Brake and > Fine Lines that can provide all the parts you need for this conversion. > > Some things to keep in mind; > > 1. The mounting plate/bracket for power and manual brakes is different > on most 62-65 cars. If you can find a plate for manual brakes use it. > The power brake plate can be modified to fit. A factory drilled plate > for a Midland Ross or Bendix power brake booster (PBB) is drilled > different than for a manual single master cylinder, (MC). Your new dual > MC will most likely require drilling 2 new holes of the 4 in the plate. > > 2. The push rod from the brake pedal most likely will need to be > changed, (shortened). Adjustable rods are available with the new MC. The > plate's rod hole may also have to be enlarged at the bottom. This rod > will also be relocated on your brake pedal. Most brake pedals are > factory drilled with 2 location holes. Low hole for power, top hole for > manual if I remember, my car is still in storage so I can't check it > right now. You will also need to relocate the brake light switch for > proper contact. > > 3. New brake lines for your MC, blocking the vacume port on the intake > manifold for the PBB and your all set to learn how to drive all over > again. A lot more leg on the brake pedal a lot more sooner...wow. > > Nick Tiberio > FuryUs > > > > > > Marcus Edell-The RevTones wrote: > > > > But how easy is it to go back to manual? are the holes there already or > > do I have to drill into the firewall,to mount the Master Cylinder? I > > can't tell..Bob you're pretty Close by,I'm in Fremont.. > > > > -- > > Marcus"Hot Rod"Edell-The RevTones www.myspace.com/revtones > > www.revtones.net > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > From: v8magic@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > > > > > Manual brakes are far superior to power brakes for at least a couple of > > > reasons. > > > > > > First, power brake boosters sometimes fail to boost while driving puting > > > > > > the driver in a spot with an extremely firm pedal to push. That is > > > dangerous! > > > > > > Second, Driving with a correctly spec'ed manual master cylinder gives an > > > > > > easy to apply pedal with far better brake feel. It also lets the driver > > > press as hard as he can while the booster limits total available travel, > > > > > > so you cannot apply the brakes as hard. Power brake boosters also add a > > > numbing effect to brake feel. > > > > > > Those points reflect my personal experiences driving a lot of different > > > vehicles with boosted and non-boosted brakes. By the way, I also drive > > > with both feet, one for the gas and the other for the brake, assuming an > > > > > > automatic. > > > > > > Bob in Sacramento > > > > > > > > > > > > mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: > > > > > > > > Why would you want top go to manual brakes??? So much safer with Power > > > > Brakes. Unless you are going racing, and looking to save weight. > > > > ---- Marcus Edell wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Sorry for Asking All these questions: > > > > > I have Power Brakes on my 62 Polara 500 and I was wondering how hard it > > > > > would be to convert to Manual Brakes? Just ditch the Booster and get a > > > > > new Manual Master Cylinder? > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > Marcus"Hot Rod"Edell-The RevTones www.myspace.com/revtones > > > > > www.revtones.net > > > > > -- > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > > > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > > > > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > > > > > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > > > > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > > > > > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > > > > > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > > > > > > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---- > > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > > > directly > > > to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as > > > well as > > > other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the > > > Clubhouse > > > public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the > > > total volume > > > of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > > -- > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > furyus63 > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly > to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as > other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse > public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume > of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > -- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.