Don Dulmage wrote: > > Dakota Starter. You remove the plastic black cover from the connections > then > unbolt the factory EXTENSION (yup there already is one on there) and > then > the stock original starter wires will hook up perfectly despite what you > may > think. Works great. Even have one opn my slant 6 dragster, My max wedge > car > and my pals poly 318 fury with 2x4bbls > Don > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gary" <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Cc: "Paul Lennemann" <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 9:41 PM > Subject: Re: Dakota Starter > > > > > > I think that I would try and get a longer cable rather than trying to > > solder an extension. New cable would also not have any corosion. in > > it. > > ---- Paul Lennemann <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> > >> I got my oil pan changed this weekend. Did it by lifting the motor and > >> dropping the center link. When I looked at the FSM to see what the > >> process was for dropping the K member I saw "remove lower control arms, > >> remove torsion bars etc." that was enough to make me go the other way. > >> Anyway, while doing this job I also changed the starter as my old one > >> was a little weak with the higher compression and close quarters to the > >> new headers I installed after the motor rebuild. When the motor was hot > >> it struggled to crank. So I got a junk yard starter off of a 95 V-8 > >> Dakota. Because of the different position of the wiring lugs (on top > >> nearer the block as opposed to on the front of the solenoid) it looks > >> like my original wire loom to the starter is going to be a little short. > >> My thought was to solder an extension on to the cables and get a little > >> heat blanket for it. I know some of you have done this mod. Just > >> wondering if there are any words of wisdom before I get started > >> > >> Paul L. > >> '63 Sport Fury > >> 440/727 > >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html > >> > >> > >> ---- > >> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > >> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > >> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > >> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > >> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > >> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > >> > >> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > >> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > >> > > > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- > > directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and > > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will > > protect > > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content > > signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > > Thanks to all who chimed in on this. I had to take the little plastic extension off (as Don said) as it hit the block and wouldn't allow it to bolt up flush to the bell housing. I don't have the header bolted back on the left side yet but it would sure be nice if the cable would just bolt up with out having to jack around with a new cable or ???????? I have to get this done soon as it's going to the body shop for the winter right after Christmas. Paul L. '63 Sport Fury 440/727 http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.