Re: Ignition Tuning
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Re: Ignition Tuning




A Holley 600 was a good choice it was the right size carb for a 318, adding
headers should have been your next step, not a cam.  The duration of the cam
is very helpful in diagnosing the problem, also I had a 383 with a double
roller that had no power and found the key way in the crank gear was off
retarding it a few degrees from TDC.  I used an offset dowel pin in the cam
gear to degree the cam correctly.  A factory roller chain from a truck motor
is what direct connection clinics used to recommend.  What kind of intake,
single or dual plain single plain will hurt your set up?  Also headers are a
must with a cam, Poly manifolds just don't flow like max wedges do!  With a
four bbl carb and larger cam your filling up the cylinders and burning it
and then it has no place to go very fast backing every thing up.  Hopefully
you have dual exhaust?  Remember the old potato in the exhaust pipe prank.

At this point in time headers are your next step.  It will give you the best
bang for your buck.  Once you get every thing flowing in and out then fine
tune playing with timing and jetting is next.  What type of cruising do you
do local or long distance or is it a daily driver?  If it is an all round
cruiser and not your daily driver I would recommend 3:55s, I have 3:91s in
my Fury & 4:11s in the Challenger for the street, but I'm not necessarily
looking for good gas mileage in a cruiser more seat of the pants.  (:  just
my opinion take it or forget it!

    
 Herb 
 
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Challenger RT 440
1999 Durango SLT 5.9
2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
St. Louis, MO.
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Bill
Date: 3/8/2009 7:28:40 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Ignition Tuning
 
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I guess what I'm going on most is past experience. Years ago I put a
Holley 600 and factory cast iron 4 bbl manifold on my 73 Dart Sport w/
a 318 and 2.76 gears. With that change alone, there was a huge
difference it's performance. I guess I figured that with a little bit
of a cam and a 4 bbl with a SLIGHTLY steeper gear, I would see more
increase than I did. I realize it's not gonna run like a stroker or a
big block, but it shouldn't act like a 2bbl under 3500 rpm. The cam is
only a .450" lift, double roller timing chain, & everything else is
bone stock. I'll have to dig up the cam card for specs. It's going to
get new exhaust (has 2" now) and I'm thinking about 3.23's. If I could
find a set of headers cheap I would do 'em too.
 
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html
 
On Sun, Mar 8, 2009 at 5:54 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> A cruiser, well if you were looking for the cam lope to impress as you
> slowly roll by you have to accept the bad performance or spend the money
to
> make it work (Run Good)!  What duration is the cam big duration kills
> lowend?  Your 2.93 is killing you no torque no pull.  When you put a big
> lift & especially big duration cam in you loose low end power and have to
> compensate for it by lowering your rear end gears.    Also you probably
have
> a big converter that is killing you also.  You need at minimum to find a
> small factory one out of a performance car, Junkyards should have them
> fairly cheap.  Their are a lot of variables to look at like what kind of
> timing chain & gears did you use as a lot of after market ones need to be
> dialed in with offset keys, what kind of intake are you using because a
> single plain is a torque killer, what kind of headers and exhaust are you
> using because big tubes kill torque, were is your timing set at, jetting
on
> the carb and so on.  Changing just a cam almost always or at least 99% of
> the time has the outcome your experiencing.   The cam is down on the list
of
> needed parts for performance Enhancers.  List what All you have done to
the
> engine and what bolt on power adders you have.  Then we can start you down
> the road to recovery!!  (-;
>
>    
>  Herb
>
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Challenger RT 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> St. Louis, MO.
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Bill
> Date: 03/08/09 15:41:13
> To: 62-65 Mopar List
> Subject: Ignition Tuning
>
> OK...now that I have the cam FINALLY broken in, and a carb kit on the
> way for my AVS, I need to do some fine tuning. When I put my buddies
> Edelbrock carb (box stock and untouched) on the car for break in, it
> seemed to run pretty well. But when we drove it, it didn't seem to
> have much more power than my stock 2bbl setup @ lower rpm's, and it
> wasn't super impressive @ the higher end. I'm guessing tuning the
> distributor is next and I've never messed with ignition curving before
> so I definitely need some help. Besides tuning the distributor and
> some tweaks on the carb, what else can I do to it?
>
> For now I'm be running a Carter AVS, Pertronix electronic ignition,
> .450 lift cam, stock convertor, and 2.93 gears. This car is a cruiser,
> but I want some power ans expected much more from the swap right away.
> Was I Wrong? Suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> --
> Bill M
> 65 Coronet 500 'vert
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html
 
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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