Rich- when things act up, do you notice a real acrid odor from your engine?. Occassionally with my early hemi, after getting on it good and hard, I would have similar problems that I just could not figger out. Fuel pressure ok, gas filter ok , plugs clean but changed them anyway. . I noticed that it acted up after getting gas. After adding "SEA FOAM" and driving 20-30 miles , it would gradually straighten up and then be ok. I am convinced that the fuel I had put in was causing the problem. And I don't think it was water. "HEET' would not work and there was no water in the filter. ----Beats me ????????...........MO.......sw iowa ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Kinsley" <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: Todays findings
Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies This is like a soap opera. Today I removed the valve covers and retested and corrected the valve lash. This time I used the method Earl Helm said to use. I turned the engine to TDC and did #1, then turned it 90deg to the next cylinder in the firing order and set it. This was real easy and I found if I removed the dist cap all I had to do was turn it till the reluctor and mag pick-up were in line. I had over-tightened a few with my keep tighting till they're all .014" at any point. My reasoning was that the gap shouldn't be more than .014" at any point and if it was, tighten it. Sounds right but I guess it's not. D**n my mechanic :-) I did discuss this scenario with Dodger too. I checked the plugs and see no oil. I did a compression test with the plugs pulled and dry cylinders with 5 cranks of the starter. 5 were at 185psi and the other 3 were at 182psi. I'd say that's good. I couldn't find my leak down fitting. I put in new plugs too.I also put the timing light on every plug wire and they stayed steady. So I am convinced the rings, valve settings and ignition are doing fine. Then I started the car and ran it about 15 minutes at idle. The fuel pressure looked a little high but it's hard to tell 'cause the gauge is at the end of the fuel block after the carbs and it jumps 2 or 3 psi constantly as the carbs suck some fuel off. I'll move it to the other output on the press regulator and that should make it accurate. I did set the press down a bit as it looked high. The car ran nice and cool and idled smooth. Then it started to sputter and my stepson said he saw the fuel press drop to about 3 or less. Then it did the same old cough, gasp, backfire with bluish smoke and dieseled before it finally died. It restarted fine about 5 minutes later and ran good again. Next I am going to concentrate on the fuel system as I really feel it's the culprit. Maybe the pump or the reg are messing up or I still doubt the last fill up with the octane booster. That's when the problem started. I'll see if there's any seperating in the fuel and check the filter too. I'll let you know in the next chapter :-) ----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.