RE: Sway Bars Again

[Rich Kinsley <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx>]

Ollie is right. You can get all that stuff and not too pricey. I like 
the poly/graphite because I think they are more durable. I know my ride 
is pretty stiff. But I did the whole poly/.096 t-bar and extra rear 
spring deal with the KYB's. I would back off on the T-bar if I were 
doing it again but it's OK. My poly/graphite bushings do not squeak.
Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
=====================================================================
Ollie wrote:
> 
> My $.02..the rubber bushings are all available at NAPA for alot less 
> than 
> you see at these "preformance sites" Went with those. Starting the 
> torsion 
> bar project tomorrow and will keep you posted.
> Ollie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again
> 
> 
> 
> Doggone-it. one good source says poly graphite  bushings give a harsher 
> ride
> than rubber bushings, and another good source says  they ride like an
> imperial.  I am ready for all bushings replacement, don't care about
> blasting the curves- just dont want to feel every bump in the road. Can 
> I
> have some more input please?................MO.....sw  iowa
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:38 AM
> Subject: Sway Bars Again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the ride in a cruiser not a lot unless you go too heavy of a 
> sway
> bar, (Here we go) in drive ability a sway bar mainly ties the front end
> together reducing body roll in turns and gives you a more stable feel of 
> the
> road off setting the need of a heaver T-bar.  I just got the new Hot Rod 
> in
> the mail today and they have an article on MoPar handling bolt-on's 
> (What
> Timing!).  The article confirms what I wrote that a good set of shocks &
> sway bars give you a lot more gain in handling than replacing the 
> torsion
> bars and springs.  They went through a 67 Coronet and replaced each item
> step by step and ran it through a course.  The new T-bars & rear springs 
> had
> a little less than a 2 MPH gain.  The shocks had a 3 MPH gain and the 
> sway
> bars showed just a little less than a 4 MPH gain through the course.
> 
> I saw some feed back that people were very happy with the ride they got 
> with
> the heaver T-bars and that is the ride they were looking for.  I also 
> saw
> people regret going to big so you need to really think out what your 
> wanting
> your car to do before spending the hard earned dollars that we can 
> barely
> spare on our cars. The point I was trying to make is if it's not broke 
> don't
> fix-it & bigger is not always better, it just depends on what you use 
> your
> car for.
> 
> On my Sport Fury I used the .890 T-bars, pollygraphite bushings and a 
> good
> set of gas shocks and it does in fact ride like an Imperial.  I am still
> debating if I am going to even install the sway bar I got for it or just
> leave well enough alone!  Also to heavy of a sway bar can ruin a ride on 
> a
> cruiser.  My experience has been the stiffer the T bar & sway bar the
> harsher the ride but the better the road feel.  They also pointed out in 
> the
> article too stiff and the inside tire will lift off the ground in a 
> turn.  I
> hate when that happens!!
> 
> Now, on my Challenger R/T with a 440 I am using the .960 T-bars,
> polly-bushings, heavy sway bars F&R, wide sticky tires & performance gas
> shocks, it goes were ever I point it when ever I want it to.  Now, for 
> us
> old guys on a long trip/cruise it's just not very comfortable and you 
> can
> feel it at the end of the day.  But dam it's fun to drive!!
> 
>         
>  Herb
> 
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Challenger RT 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9
> 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
> St. Louis, MO.
> 
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------Original Message-------
> 
> From: Douglas Sutherland
> Date: 7/17/2009 1:00:52 PM
> To: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: sway bars
> 
> Thanks for the info Herb.
> 
> Besides less lean in a turn, what else does a sway bar actually do for 
> all
> round drive ability (non racing cruiser)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > From: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: sway bars
> > Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:14:21 -0500
> >
> >
> >
> > The .920s are good if your looking for steer ability on a Big block
> equipped
> > car, want to increase your load carrying capacity or help level / 
> > stiffen
> > the car out on tight corners. The .960s are for road race applications &
> > load increasing a high option car with a RB or Hemi. Both can slow you
> down
> > at the drag strip and take the driving enjoyment out of a cruiser. .890s
> > are good for all round driving. .810s are good for low option 6 cylinder
> > and A engines. Now if your drag racing with a little street driving the
> > 810s & 90/10 shocks are the way to go for weight transfer. The heaver 
> > bars
> > work the same up & down and restrict weight transfer to the rear wheels
> and
> > actually unload your suspension a short distance off the line about the
> time
> > you hit second letting your tires spin instead of accelerating faster.
> When
> > your tires are spinning your not accelerating to your fullest potential,
> > ultimately slowing you down from point A to point B. The bottom line 
> > .890s
> > with a good set of shocks for best all round drive ability. I would 
> > invest
> > in a sway bar before heaver T bars unless they needed to be replaced 
> > anyway.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
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> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
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> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not 
> to 
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, 
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to 
> Mopar 
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> 
> 
> 



Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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