Re: Sway Bars Again

["MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ollie, and others. I know you need that special socket to get the upper ball 
joint out, but do you need the special tools that are shown in the factory 
service manuals to remove and replace all the bushings? 
Thanks........................MO................sw  iowa
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ollie" <satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again



My $.02..the rubber bushings are all available at NAPA for alot less than
you see at these "preformance sites" Went with those. Starting the torsion
bar project tomorrow and will keep you posted.
Ollie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: Sway Bars Again



Doggone-it. one good source says poly graphite  bushings give a harsher ride
than rubber bushings, and another good source says  they ride like an
imperial.  I am ready for all bushings replacement, don't care about
blasting the curves- just dont want to feel every bump in the road. Can I
have some more input please?................MO.....sw  iowa
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:38 AM
Subject: Sway Bars Again




As far as the ride in a cruiser not a lot unless you go too heavy of a sway
bar, (Here we go) in drive ability a sway bar mainly ties the front end
together reducing body roll in turns and gives you a more stable feel of the
road off setting the need of a heaver T-bar.  I just got the new Hot Rod in
the mail today and they have an article on MoPar handling bolt-on's (What
Timing!).  The article confirms what I wrote that a good set of shocks &
sway bars give you a lot more gain in handling than replacing the torsion
bars and springs.  They went through a 67 Coronet and replaced each item
step by step and ran it through a course.  The new T-bars & rear springs had
a little less than a 2 MPH gain.  The shocks had a 3 MPH gain and the sway
bars showed just a little less than a 4 MPH gain through the course.

I saw some feed back that people were very happy with the ride they got with
the heaver T-bars and that is the ride they were looking for.  I also saw
people regret going to big so you need to really think out what your wanting
your car to do before spending the hard earned dollars that we can barely
spare on our cars. The point I was trying to make is if it's not broke don't
fix-it & bigger is not always better, it just depends on what you use your
car for.

On my Sport Fury I used the .890 T-bars, pollygraphite bushings and a good
set of gas shocks and it does in fact ride like an Imperial.  I am still
debating if I am going to even install the sway bar I got for it or just
leave well enough alone!  Also to heavy of a sway bar can ruin a ride on a
cruiser.  My experience has been the stiffer the T bar & sway bar the
harsher the ride but the better the road feel.  They also pointed out in the
article too stiff and the inside tire will lift off the ground in a turn.  I
hate when that happens!!

Now, on my Challenger R/T with a 440 I am using the .960 T-bars,
polly-bushings, heavy sway bars F&R, wide sticky tires & performance gas
shocks, it goes were ever I point it when ever I want it to.  Now, for us
old guys on a long trip/cruise it's just not very comfortable and you can
feel it at the end of the day.  But dam it's fun to drive!!

        
Herb

1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Challenger RT 440
1999 Durango SLT 5.9
2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
St. Louis, MO.

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html




-------Original Message-------

From: Douglas Sutherland
Date: 7/17/2009 1:00:52 PM
To: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: sway bars

Thanks for the info Herb.

Besides less lean in a turn, what else does a sway bar actually do for all
round drive ability (non racing cruiser)?




> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> From: zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: sway bars
> Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 11:14:21 -0500
>
>
>
> The .920s are good if your looking for steer ability on a Big block
equipped
> car, want to increase your load carrying capacity or help level / stiffen
> the car out on tight corners. The .960s are for road race applications &
> load increasing a high option car with a RB or Hemi. Both can slow you
down
> at the drag strip and take the driving enjoyment out of a cruiser. .890s
> are good for all round driving. .810s are good for low option 6 cylinder
> and A engines. Now if your drag racing with a little street driving the
> 810s & 90/10 shocks are the way to go for weight transfer. The heaver bars
> work the same up & down and restrict weight transfer to the rear wheels
and
> actually unload your suspension a short distance off the line about the
time
> you hit second letting your tires spin instead of accelerating faster.
When
> your tires are spinning your not accelerating to your fullest potential,
> ultimately slowing you down from point A to point B. The bottom line .890s
> with a good set of shocks for best all round drive ability. I would invest
> in a sway bar before heaver T bars unless they needed to be replaced 
> anyway.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
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as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations 
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to 
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, 
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar 
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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