Bill, This could get lengthy and is stuff I do my self. First off dirt and grime is the downfall to the top and especially seals & plastic rear windows!! I clean my top with a scrub brush and mild soap and rinsing well to get all soap & dirt residue off a few times a year. Plastic window, I use mild soap and my bare hand only, anything else seems to scratch it and again rinse well. One other solution to use is a mixture of 40% rubbing alcohol and 60% water and your bare hand again rinsing well. When ever I let my top down I make sure the window folds and not wads up causing wrinkles and scratches, and use a soft cloth in the fold to keep the window from chaffing itself. Over the winter or in storage I release the latches and let the seals relax so they don't get smashed into place and harden. About once or twice a year I take silicone spray and spray some in the cap or spray liberally straight on a soft cloth and use it to clean and lube all the seals especially the one across the front as it gets the most dirt from driving. I also like to work it into the groves that the side windows seal to. It sure won't hurt to do the cleaning more often but once a year should suffice. Now the frame again armed with silicone spray I get the top to the point of vertical and stop. At that time using a tube on the spay nozzle and a rag I spray every joint & hinge that moves and follow up with a rag wipe to clean the excess off. For the areas that you don't want to take a chance with the over spray use a Q tip dipped in silicone to apply it to the movable areas. I then let the top down and hit what ever joints I can get to again. Now run your top up and down a couple of times to work it all in. If you have a rusty looking joint or hinge I use PB blaster sprayed into the lid and with a Q tip apply it to the area until it runs smooth with no squeaks or binds. Now that the top is down I clean & wax the chrome across the top of the windshield that the top seal mates with. While you have the silicone spray out now is a good time to liberally spray the spring, rollers and hinges on your garage door!! (; As far as the fluid in the reservoir it is a closed system and should be OK but after 40 sum years it sure would not harm pulling the plug and with a hose and a syringe pull some fluid out and replace with a like amount and kind of new fluid once in the up position and again in the down position making sure you replace the plug before running the pump or you probably will have another cleaning project on your hands. Why in the top up and again in the top down position, you are charging or filling the top of your cylinders with fluid putting the top down and doing the reverse putting the top up, so in theory the old fluid is now moved to the reservoir from the top of the cylinder and the cylinder bottom now has the new fluid in it that you just changed. I hope this is not to long and has been of some help, if I have lost anyone feel free to ask because I feel the only dumb question is the one you don't ask to clarify your thoughts! Herb 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 1970 Challenger RT 440 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 St. Louis, MO. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html Only 2 defining forces have ever offered to die for you....Jesus Christ and the American Soldier. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom. -------Original Message------- From: Bill Date: 4/17/2009 6:57:49 AM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Convertible filler plug? This brings up a good point. What is the service interval for a convertible top system and what should be involved. Mine currently seems to work VERY well. I know I should be doing maintenance on it but have NO idea what I should do or even where it begin! Herb - you seem to have the droptop stuff down pat! Educate us convertible newbies please!!! -- Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx u/?bUrDWg.bSONJP.YXJjLjYy ?p=TEXFOOTER