start by thowing out the tires and get some radials ,and turning up the t bars will not hurt your ride much just don't make it too high --- On Tue, 8/4/09, Doug Jacobsma <big_jake57@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > From: Doug Jacobsma <big_jake57@xxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: RE: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Date: Tuesday, August 4, 2009, 10:09 PM > > > My '63's front end was just worn out. Everything was > sloppy. You could wiggle one front wheel without the > other moving, (tie rods), all the bushings were gone, upper > and lower ball joints, ect ect. After all that > was replaced, it drives about 50% better. > Unfortunately, it's still not great, and I'm not expecting > it to drive like a new car, just like a good old one. > Wish the t-bar discussion would have come up a couple > summers ago. (Or maybe it did and I didn't pay > attention). I realize now how dumb it was to have it > all apart and not replace those. Ofcourse I'm fighting > the cubic dollar limitation as well so that was part of > it. It's also running on old bias ply tires, so I'm > not sure how much that contributes. It just likes to > follow wallows in the road. (drives great on new > pavement). :-) > Also wondering if adjusting the t-bars will mess up my > front end alignment? > I'd like it to sit just a bit higher in front. > Any suggestions appreciated. > > Jake > '63 Sport Fury 'vert > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------- > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > > From: satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: Front Ends Ollie's Ramblings > > Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:08:15 -0500 > > > > > > > > I am somewhat perplexed about the front end issues > that come up here. I cannot believe that a front end is > totally wore out and will cost a few thousand dollars to > overhaul. > > > > Most our cars do not have the mileage on them to be a > total disaster. > > > > From my 2 cent view, the only items that would > normally need to be replaced would be first, the lower ball > joints and second LCA bushings. The way that our cars are > set up with no coil springs there is not usually that much > wear and tear on the upper ball joints. The third item that > may be of issue would be the A-frame bushings. Here more > than likely you have just wore out rubber. A squeak that > drives u crazy. As far as outer tie rod ends, they just > don't go bad unless they have been run on real bad lower > ball joints or severely out of line, ie toe/in out. Inner > tie rods last forever, same as pitman arms and idler arm. > > > > All parts can be inspected. Don't let rotted cracked > rubber tell you a part is bad. Take your pry bar and pipe > wrench and try to more tie rod ends, pitman arms, idler > arms. A good wack with a stress relieving hammer on the drag > link will cause something bad to move. If there is no > play.its good. Grease it and go. > > > > Lower ball joints and LCA bushings can be changed at > home. Of course you will have to take the lower control arms > to a machine shop to be pressed. > > > > One more bit of rambling. Change your torsion bars > first before you do anything. I put this off until one of my > last projects. WRONG..should have been my first act of > terrorism. It will improve your Mopar so much your will > think you just bought it new. > > > > Ollie > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > ---- > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to > only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you. > http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackToSchool_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1 > > > ---- > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one > person -- directly to that person. I.e., send > parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other > personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the > Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your > privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the > content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. >