I find out everytime you increase your following distance someone else
jumps in there.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven Charette<mailto:stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx<mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers
and prices
Doug,
Rick Ehrenberg's article
(http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html<http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html>)
states that there
are a few '72 and '73 C-Bodies with parts that should fit your '65.
Check
out the article above and start your search :)
Ollie made a good point though, cars stopped just fine for decades
with properly maintained drum brakes. You simply need to increase your
following distance, as many cars you follow can stop faster and more
times
without fading than you can.
SC
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Daniel [mailto:dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 2:02 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx<mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers
and
prices
will all this work on a C body ? 65 dodge monaco
--- On Sat, 12/19/09, Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz
<miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
> From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz
<miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>>
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part
> numbers and prices
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx<mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM
>
> I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to go. I've done at
> least 5 brake swaps from front drums to disks on Mopars in the past
> few years. Mostly A bodies, and 1 B body. I like the slider types
> with 10.87"
> rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder, hoses, calipers for
> a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk.
>
> On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the UCAs with the
> spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers. The early A drum UCA uses a small
> BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use the large pattern BJ.
> I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M spindles
> (diplomat or 5th Ave). I noticed virtully NO difference in the ride
> or performance with either spindle. I have also run the calipers in
> the front and the calipers behind the spindles, again, no difference.
> Just the brake line routing is different.....same hose. Moving the
> calipers to the back can buy you more room for an aftermarket sway
> bar. I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars.
> cheeeeep and super solid. The early and later B bodies use the
> heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required.
>
> Any swap can be done badly. I've got a 65 Coronet rolling chassis.
> The previous owner swapped it over to disks, while complete
> "rebuilding" the front end. I just looked quickly, but someone did a
> crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin, and have re-rusted.
> 1 stud is loose in 1 rotor. I removed the dust caps, and the spindle
> nut didn't have a retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that nut could just
> walk right off, and there goes the wheel! The whole job is suspect.
> Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's work is.
>
> My parts usage on a typical swap;
>
> At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is a
> 1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master cylinder. Note:
> You need to make sure you have the proper drum/disk pushrod.
> For the calipers, I have used: 73 Dart
> (4067-4068) $37 plus $60 core at Rock Auto! or 78 Aspen
> (4103-4104)
> $22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE; the difference between
> the two different part number is the piston bore. the 73 Dart uses a
> 2.6" bore, the later Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a 2.75"
> bore. The 2.75" bore calipers are; more plentiful, cheaper, and give
> more stopping power. The proportioning valves are available new as
> repops for ~ $90. worth buying new here or OR use a 73 Dart . The
> prop. body style changed from a brass one, to a cast iron one in 1975
> on the darts. The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron valves too. It
> really depends on the look you want.
>
> Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart. I had everything put
> together, and the car pulled to the right when braking. I rechecked
> EVERYTHING....still pulled. I eventually found I was sent one 2.6"
> bore and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!
>
>
> For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes website and read up.
> Its actually a combination valve.
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From:
<chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx<mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>>
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
> Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part
> numbers and prices
>
>
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64 Polara
> convertible right after I did the swap on it in August.
> >
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735<http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735>
> > The pics there show exactly what happens when you use
> the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I replaced it all
> with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing calipers...
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Charette"
> <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>>
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx<mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada Eastern
> > Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read
> with part numbers and prices
> >
> >
> > "One note from personal experience - get good quality
> (read that Made in USA)
> > caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks more
> than imported stuff
> > that I have had problems with in the past - consider
> the prospect of the
> > caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps. Not
> cool. "
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only
> to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
> and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html>
and
>
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html>.
> >
> >
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
> the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html>
and
>
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html>.
>
>
>
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html>
and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html>.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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