RE: 273 Rebuild status and how much compression we can run on pump gas w

[Paul Lennemann <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>]

Steve, I'm not sure of my final compression ratio but, I tried the 89 
octane 10% ethanol just to see and it did not ping.  I think my 
compression ratio is is somewhere in the 9.5:1 area.  My pistons were 
over 0.100 down in the hole so I used a KB piston with a lower pin 
height to bump up the compression.  The machinist didn't measure it but 
guessaed the change would bring it up at least a point and a half or 
more.

Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html

Steve Mick wrote:
> 
> The highest compressiopn ratio for 92 octane is something I have been 
> debating  on my build plans.  Gary, I would like to know what you come 
> up 
> with..................................MO
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 10:14 PM
> Subject: Re: 273 Rebuild status and how much compression we can run on 
> pump 
> gas w/10.5 mo
> 
> 
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > With 10.5 pistons you will raise your compression considerably more than 
> > 
> > most pump gas will handle.  What fuel will you be using and will you be 
> > adding an octane booster or a bit of "race" fuel?
> >
> > I have been researching the correct octane level for 10 to 10.5 to 1 
> > true 
> > compression motors and would appreciate any research/experiential input 
> > from our list members.
> >
> > Gary Pavlovich
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Tom Watters" <tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 7:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: 273 Rebuild status
> >
> >
> >> Steve,
> >>
> >> Good Point.  The New pistons will require that, even with all the manual 
> >> 
> >> checks Egge does, there's still the need when adding pistons and pins 
> >> that something might be askew.  Dont want to flub up the forged crank.
> >>
> >> Will have to add it to the list.  Appreciate it.
> >>
> >> --Tom
> >>
> >> Steven Charette wrote:
> >>> Tom,
> >>> You got money tucked away to rebalance the rotating assembly?
> >>>
> >>> SC
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Tom Watters [mailto:tomwatters@xxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Thursday, 
> >>> January 21, 2010 10:14 PM
> >>> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> >>> Subject: 273 Rebuild status
> >>>
> >>> Well, it looks like I'll be rebuilding the 273 rather than just a 
> >>> refresh
> >>> (Rings & beargings).  Needs boring, which means pistons and the like.
> >>>
> >>> After bumping around on the phone, I got some good recommendations of 
> >>> friend
> >>> of the the local car club president for a machine shop.  It seems to be 
> >>> on
> >>> the high end of average, but I can tell he does know his stuff.  When I
> >>> talked to Nellis Machine or Las Vegas Crank and Machine, they didnt 
> >>> leave me
> >>> with a comfortable feeling about taking in my original block to them.  I
> >>> told HBR Competition Engies I will be dropping off the Block, Heads, 
> >>> Crank
> >>> and Pistons tomorrow afternoon.  Total for Bore (175-200)/Crank Turn 
> >>> (95)/Cam Bearing install
> >>> (75)/re-condition rods (25-35) is at a 500-600, depending.
> >>>
> >>> This will cause me to buy pistons. Only one company makes (egge) the
> >>> 10.5:1s, Those will run about $300
> >>>
> >>> Cam/Lifters from Racer Brown is now on Order $235+Tax.  Ordered # ST-1 -
> >>> Mechanical Cam.  Its a little lumpier than the stock HiPo Cam (450 lift
> >>> instead of 425), but not as big as the D-Dart race cam (495 lift).  It
> >>> should give me what I want.
> >>>
> >>> So barring a ton of head work, the rest of the parts I'm looking at will 
> >>> 
> >>> be
> >>> about $300 (Timing Chain, Teardown set, Freeze Plugs, Bearings, Rings, 
> >>> etc)
> >>>
> >>> Total for a full rebuild minus head work, I'm looking at $1435.  if I 
> >>> need
> >>> head work, Usually about another $200-$500
> >>>
> >>> If He were assembling, it'd be another 1000 or so.
> >>>
> >>> Now to get the taxes submitted so I have the funds to pay for it with my
> >>> return.  ;-)
> >>>
> >>> Regards and Happy Moparing.
> >>> --Tom
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ----
> >>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> >>> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> >>> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> >>> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> >>> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the 
> >>> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >>>
> >>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> >>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> > protect 
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> 



Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.