I didn't see that you had reattached the trans cooling return line. I was expecting fluid to shoot all over the place! Now that would've been exciting :-) Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies ==================================================================== W.A. Edison wrote: > > Pat Blais is nearly a legend in the Northwest for his ability to rebuild > Torqueflites. The best I've heard it put is that Pat was the first one > in > this region (back in the sixties) to take a TF apart, figure it out, and > build them out the way they should be. He's an Ebay seller as well and > is on > our forum's vendor page. I removed my first ever TF, Pat swapped out a > similar TF with me that he rebuilt, taking mine as a core. I wanted to > stay > with authentic ball & trunnion look of the car, but Pat was not happy > about > that, as he said the 64s had some inherent problems that were corrected > in > 65-66. But he found a way. I think he said the TF I got was out of a 65 > Imperial or some such, the last car Chrysler put the ball and trunnion > on, > then he beefed up the internals and the shift points a bit. > > So, I get the transmission, install it, and I'm feeling pretty darned > good > about myself having never done anything like that before. Lesson > learned.... > don't tighten up those Schumacher headers before installing all the TF > bolts, because there's not quite enough room to slide one bolt by the > header > on the right side. Having paid attention on this forum and listening to > Pat, I carefully adjusted the Neutral Safety Switch tangs to the proper > position in Neutral and Park before putting the pan on. I'd already > pre-loaded the convertor with one quart of oil, put in 5 more. I left > the > transmission cooling return line off the tranny per Pat's instructions, > started the car for about 20 seconds, draining a quart of TF fluid off. > Then > I buttoned it up, put in 2 more quarts of oil, started the engine and > filled > the tranny the rest of the way. Now I'm feeling near-brillant, soon to > be > humbled again. Keep in mind, this is all with the headers off, so I'm > not > hearing anything coming from the tranny. > > I put the console shift lever in Reverse,,,, no reverse. Instantly I'm > thinking "I wonder what refunds I can get from the Hot August Nights > people?", but I fish around with the shifter and find reverse, almost in > the > Park position. Well, not time to worry about it right now, I've got to > get > the car over to the exhaust shop and get the pipes welded on, so I drive > it > out of the garage and into the trailer. Not going to sleep well tonight > thinking about the Torqueflite. > > I leave the car overnight, the owner of the shop calls, says the exhaust > is > on and "by the way", he noticed that the tranny wasn't properly adjusted > but > he did that, so all the gear shift positions work and are in their > proper > place and the car only starts now in Neutral and Park. Lesson > learned.... > just getting the tangs correctly positioned on the Neutral Safety Switch > is > not the end-all be-all for getting the shift points right. You still may > have to use the control cable adjustment wheel to fine tune the shifter. > > The car is still on the rack when I get to the shop, we check out the > exhaust system,,,, I'm a happy albeit poorer $$$$ guy. He starts to back > the > car off the rack and HOLY CRAP !!!! The tranny is clattering like crazy! > Again.... I'm like totally deflated. What the H***! He's much calmer. > The > car is on a rack that allows you to "drive" the car, so he starts it up, > puts it in gear and I listen as best a deaf guy can, feel along the > tranny > till I come to the Park Lock cable. AHAH! That's the problem area, > what's > the problem? When I took the old tranny out, I was careful to note that > that > the park lock cable was in as far as it would go, so was very diligent > about > putting this one all the way back in till it stopped. I anxiously call > Pat > and he says "Hmmm, I gave you a sheet that tells you how to adjust that > cable Butch. You want it in just far enough to make PARK engage on a > slope > but not so far in that it makes any noise. AND he says, you should never > assume that Park will hold the car on a hill. It could fail. (never knew > that). " Whew... we adjusted it, pull it off the rack and a couple of > minutes later...HUGE puddle of TF fluid under the car! Here we go again. > We > put the car back on the rack and see that it all came out the filler > tube. > The shop owner surmises it was an air bubble that cut loose and pushed > the > TF out. We refilled it and I start putting miles on the car. > > Well, not many. I get above 40 mph and the damn thing starts clattering > again. I know what to do now though, so my wife (how thinks and deals in > micro) helps me adjust the Park Lock pin in 1/8ths, then 1/16ths, and > finally 1/32nd of an inch using a variety of washers and shims to > accurately > gauge travel movement of the pin. You have to do something like that > because > once you tap the holding bolt loose, unless you have 8 hands, the pin > will > move a little. > > So, I've now put about a hundred miles on the car. It runs cool, sounds > great, and the Torqueflite feels super. > > I'm sure you have nodded off by now and I surely need a nap, so this is > the > last of my great adventure notes (HOPEFULLY!) > > /Butch/Ferndale, WA > Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.