Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions

[Paul Hamaday <phamaday@xxxxxxxxx>]

If the TOP side follows the contours of the floor pan then they must be visible from outside the car. 
If a car needs connectors, then it needs GOOD connectors. You don't 'kinda need' connectors. Why take the time to weld in 'semi strong' connectors?
You also have to remember our cars are getting old & as they grow old they are losing structural integrity. If you're going to modify an aging car give it a solid foundation. 
I'm not trying to sell my connectors. I couldn't possibly produce enough for our community alone. But damn, I'm 57, could OUR old bodies produce more power without strengthening our frames? 

Hammer



--- On Fri, 9/17/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, September 17, 2010, 9:40 PM
> 
> As I understand, they are not needed till horsepower is
> approching 400 and using hard bite slicks.  There is
> another type that interests me--It is sheet metal U channel
> that the top side is trimmed to follow the contour of your
> underneath floor pans.  They are then welded on the
> ends and along the sides, to the floor-pan.  They do
> not show from the outside of the car. You have torque
> boxes?? I thought they come only on convertibles and Hemi
> cars.. They may be all you need...................MO
> 
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Bailey" <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 8:19 AM
> Subject: More Sub Frame Connector Questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recent mention of sub frame connectors here rekindled,
> my thoughts of adding them to my ’64 Dodge B-body two door
> HT…when I get ‘round…to replacing the floor pans. But
> I have some questions on type(s) and installation location.
> First, I seem to remember reading about two commercially
> available types, one type being constructed of round tubing
> (pipe) with end brackets for bolting (or welding) and the
> other is sheet metal formed to a U channel. Then there are
> those who fabricate their own from rectangular steel tube.
> (I might consider the later route myself.)
> I should also mention that I don’t intend this to be a
> racecar yielding tons-o’-torque. It’ll be a nearly stock
> 383 w/4bl, 4 speed for summer weekend cruising, though I
> will want to “stomp on it” occasionally.
> Next is mounting location. The fact that the front sub
> frame rails do not line up directly with the rear frame
> rails, what is the recommended tie-in point’s front to
> rear? And should there be any additional strengthening to
> the torque boxes?
> Should the connectors run at a slight angle to match-up
> with the ends of each sub frame rail?
> Looking for some fuel for thought via
> recommendations…including none at all?
> Thank you Gents!
> Dave B
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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