RE: crankshaft key?

[David Bailey <bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Yes, those woodruff keys can be a challenge sometimes. It’s a common keying method found on a lot of industrial equipment. I used the word "deformed" perhaps I should have added even the slightest “nick” on the key or in the keyway will cause trouble. But probably the big fault can be what you said, rust or corrosion under it. You’re wise to remove the key and clean it and the keyway up. Once it’s out, lay the key flat on smooth-cut flat file and with just light finger pressure, slide it back and forth a few times on each surface. You’ll immediately be able to detect any nicks, as the key will “hang up” on the file. If the key doesn’t smooth out in just one or two passes, get a new one. Excessive filing will make it too small and will fit too lose. It should fit snugly. Forgive me if I’m explaining something you already know but I think it’s worth saying, when inserting the key into the shaft, be sure it’s seated and leave the starting edge just slightly low enough to start the gear then as the gear goes on it will self align the key to the slot in the gear, using a little lube oil will also help. Good luck.  

Dave B
 
'64 Dodge 
440 B-body
2dr ht 383 cid 
4 bbl 4 spd duel exh
ZZW - Anniversary Gold w/ white side sweep




 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> From: spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: crankshaft key?
> Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 17:59:34 -0600
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'll check it out, though I don't remember seeing any obvious deformation of the key. I did notice that I had a heck of a time getting the old lower timing gear to slide off and I was unable to put the new gear on. The new gear makes it about 2/3 onto the crankshaft, then gets snug; so snug in fact that even tapping on it with a small hammer and flat chisel won't budge it. That's when I figured the key may be slightly raised or have some rust or corrosion under it, pushing it up a tiny bit. I even took the old gear and tried to put it back on and it did the same no-go at 2/3 in. So I figured I'd take the key out and clean all up, but could not get it removed before I ran out of daylight. Another old car repair adventure! :) 
> 
> Thanks,
> Gary H. 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> >I agree with Jim and Brian’s method but you might also want to take a close look at that part of the still exposed key that it is not deformed in any way. It could work against you by not being able to "rock" or move in the keyway as described. Another approach would to be use a small ¼” wide chisel and hammer gently working the chisel point under the point of the key up and out of the keyway. 
> >And assuming the crank and key can be turned straight up, maybe a soaking with a little penetrating oil or perhaps some of this “special penetrating stuff” Automatic Transmission Fluid & Acetone. A 50/50 homebrew mix would also help?
> >
> >
> >Dave B
> > 
> >'64 Dodge
> 
> 
> ----
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> 
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> 
 		 	   		  
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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