Re: FINALLY!!!

[Stan Kafouse <skafouse@xxxxxxxxx>]

Did you run the valves? If it sat for a long time the lifters need to pump up again. Had a new 500 caddy that ran horrible then the lifters filled up and no more popping spitting etc.

--- On Mon, 4/4/11, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Monday, April 4, 2011, 2:09 AM
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Good news indeed!
> 
> You were indefatigable in your search for the problem and
> it paid off.
> 
> Is the fuel fresh or is it months old?
> 
> Gary P.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)"
> <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:46 PM
> Subject: FINALLY!!!
> 
> 
> > 
> >  WWWHHHOOOOOO---HHHAAAAA I got my 64 Sport
> Fury(383)  to start and run on it's own. No battery
> jumper or spritzing in gas in the carb.  I did not have
> a AH-HA! smokeing gun moment  during the whole
> ordeal.  This Fury had been used as a drag car, and
> when the former owner decided to sell it. I think he took
> off the good ignition and carb and put some things he had
> laying around back on it. There were so many things wrong he
> prolly got sick of it and then I came along with some cash
> in hand.  Some rare times it would start when you let
> off the key switch and then run fairly well. for a short
> time. I am somewhat good at diagnosis but it stymied
> me!  I knew nothing about Nopar electronic ignition or
> how to trace down an ignition problem with them. So I went
> back to a rebuilt  points distributor. No go.  I
> messed around with jumper wires and such that I can't
> remember the sequence of what I did.  I know I learned
> what a balladst resister does and how it works now. I got
> some wireing diagrams and started sorting out the jumble of
> wires. I found that the hot wire to the ballast was the
> wrong one. It would shut off the power to it when the engine
> was cranking. So I found the wire that remained hot when
> cranking the starter. and hooked it to the input side of the
> ballast  he engine would run with a boost of gas to
> start it, but after a short while, would die. I messed with
> the timeing but had to guess as the engine would not run
> long enough to know when it was close.  Rebuilt dist
> did not have hardly any point gap . Set that, no go. 
> Changed out the old MsSD coil for one that does not need a
> external ballast resister. No go. Took off the 3310 Hlley
> carb and someone had put the accelerator pump diaphram in
> upside down!  AAHH-HAA!----No go.  Put in new
> points and condensor, no go. Had plenty of spark at the
> wire????   It would start but popped
> backfired puked . Has to be the carb. I bought a Holly 3310
> carb at a swap meet that suppossedly been rebuilt and on the
> shelf for a long time. I had to transfer some parts from the
> first Holley  It would then start but still popped and
> backfired occasionally. So then I thought the plug gap would
> have been wider for the elet. ign. so I TOOK OUT THE PLUGS,
> CLEANED THEM AND RESET THE GAP. ( caps not
> intended)   Man ! what a PITA to change those
> plugs with headers !!! The engine started right up, 
> might have been a combination of getting the carb soaked up
> with gas and the plugs.
> > 
> > At first the engine still popped and puked back when
> cold, but after a while when warmes up better, it started
> running smoother. . I stopped for the day so didn't get the
> carb finer tuned.
> > 
> > Question is: Is this cold missfire and puking back
> from two lean a low speed fuel mixture?   My
> manual choke is not hooked up.  Any other things that
> could still be a problem? Thanks for your
> input...........................MO
> > 
> > 
> > {Steve Mick}
> > http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
> > 
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
> only one person --  directly to that person. 
> I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
> as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
> not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and
> fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > 
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> 
> > 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
>