That's the same style of tool that Harbor Freight sells. It works quite well, just don't overload it as you WILL break it (I've killed 3). Just load it up a little bit and wait for the bang. If it doesn't seem to be working, heat the spindle head up a little and stand back Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3 On Mon, Apr 11, 2011 at 11:11 PM, Gary H. <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PN010/ seems to have good vibes; is that > one style you cite? > > Also, if you remember Paul P. (Pig Doc) who used to be a member here, he > had a method...hum... I *think* he used a ball peen hammer to hit the > steel (not aluminum) steering arm where the tie rod goes into, not the > tie rod, and thus broke the taper seal. Seems he may have backed up the > steering arm with something but I can't recall. > > Thanks, > Gary H. > > > Donald Gallimore wrote: >> >> How do you guys separate the various tie rods and such connected to the >> ste= >> ering =0Alink?=A0 I have a fork - that tears the heck out of the boot >> plus = >> I hate =0Abeating=A0like hell on it.=A0 Then there's the U type joint >> separ= >> ator with the screw =0Ain bolt - seems to twist off the cross link more >> tim= >> es than not.=A0 Lastly, I have =0Aa Cromwell tie rod separator -=A0the >> prob= >> lem I have with it is that the screw head =0Ais=A0up towards the engine >> and= >> =A0it's really hard to get a wrench on it.=A0 This is =0Aall relative to >> my= >> '65 Belvedere.=0A=0ASo, what=A0cha got the works for >> you?=A0=0A=A0=0AAkron= >> Don Gallimore >