Re: 400 motor - scrap it?

[John Hammond <426_maxwedge@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Maurice Petty has been quoted as saying that they used the same practice at 
Petty Enterprises back in the
years that they ran Mopars exclusively.  From a technician/builder I spoke 
with at Hensley Racing; when I asked
at what point a block was considered a "junk core", said unless it's 
structurally broken in the casting, never. As
he put it, the supply of Mopar cores is always in the balance even with new 
replacements available...you never
know when production of new might cease unexpectly. There may be a day when 
something with eight sleeves
becomes commonplace and acceptable. But you still gotta have a solid chunk 
of cast iron to stick them in. I
asked just how bad of a starting place would they rule out as a beginning. 
To which he responded, that if they
can get the pistons out, clean it to useable tolerances via overbore, and it 
passes sonic crack and durability
testings they would use it.  Why wouldn't anybody if it had been given a 
clean bill of health.  As someone else
said, considering the metalurgy of today, I think I'd rather trust the half 
century old iron in terms of strength and
molecular structure.  So, don't scrap anything that looks hopeless, people 
build cars from stuff that used to be
considered used up parts donors today.

John Hammond



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Mokomoko" <anthony.mokomoko@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 6:52 PM
Subject: RE: 400 motor - scrap it?


> I'd keep it. Many years ago when I did my aircraft engineering courses - 
> we
> spent a lot of time learning about metals. One part of the subject that
> interested me was on "weathering". Apparently it was well known that the
> British and European race car teams on the 50's & 60's would leave the
> engine blocks outside in the elements so that an engine block was exposed 
> to
> constant, slow temperature changes to align the crystaline structure for
> increased strength and durability. As a result they ended up with an 
> engine
> on race day that would be slightly harder and less flexible over time. As 
> a
> result it would make for a "stiff" block for a tuned engine.
>
> So maybe there is some advantages to this ...as Gary said it could be the
> block to make a killer engine.
>
> Tony Mokomoko
> Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Pavlovich [mailto:glpavlovich@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, 8 May 2011 8:30 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: 400 motor - scrap it?
>
>
> Gary,
>
> The first 318 Poly that I turned into a 402" Stroker motor was given to me
> for "free," in the worst of condition.  It looked like it was dregded out 
> of
>
> a swamp as every piston was lodged/cemented in the bores and each piston 
> top
>
> had a rusted hole the size of a silver dollar.  I had to use a 2x4 and an
> 8lb. sledge hammer to dislodge the pistons.
>
> Needless to say, this became the genesis for the "Rodney Dangerfield"
> article I wrote on the Poly motor.
>
> If it were mine, I would tank/clean/mag and if it is not cracked, make a
> killer engine out of it.
>
> Gary Pavlovich
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Donnie Schanz Jr" <dcs426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 3:07 PM
> Subject: Re: 400 motor - scrap it?
>
>
> > This is the question I always ask myself when junking something like 
> > that.
>
> > Do they still make these? Answer yes, junk it, answer no, put it
> > somewhere. Any real engine is getting harder and harder to find, and the
> > "junk chinese" aftermarket parts dont make the repop or new forged items
> > any better. Keep it. Take it apart and put the block, crank, rods
> > somewhere and junk the rest.
> >
> > Donnie
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Gary H." <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 5:02 PM
> > Subject: 400 motor - scrap it?
> >
> >
> > > http://www.picupine.com/3263346x shows some pictures of a 1976 400
> > > motor. Nature has taken a toil, though. Any opinions as to if it should
> > > head to the local "we buy steel at 90 cents a pound" establishment?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Gary H.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> > > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> > > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> > > protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> > > content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > >
> > > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> > protect
>
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect 
> your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.