Re: Opinion on ignition

[Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Jacob,

Maybe I'm wrong, but I get the sense you may be a little new to the
old car scene.  How long have you had your car?  Have you had other
old cars before?

Speaking from my own experience, I'm nowhere near as good and
experienced as the majority of guys in this group.  I'm 47 and have
owned several 60's and 70's muscle cars over the last 10 years, but
not much before that other than my rusty 70 Bel Air 4 door that I got
for $250 in 1982 and my friends called the Blues Mobile.  But over
those 10 years, I've learned a lot but enough to know I have way more
to still learn.

Anyway, maybe I'm off base, but it's easy to get excited and want to
do everything to a newly acquired car at once.  But my best advice
would be that if runs and drives, use it for quite a while as it us.
Upgrade what's necessary to keep it running but take your time and
learn the car and everything you can about the model and year.  Read
this forum, go to car shows and talk to people.  Like a woman, you
have to understand what makes her tick and how you both can be most
comfortable with each other.  It's easy to start doing new things and
do too much and regret it later.

On the other hand, you also learn by trying new things.  OK, I'm
stepping off the soap box and heading to Carlisle.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco

On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 3:28 PM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Nice! Thanks for all the info! Ima hit that seal in the winter...unfortunately the only junk yards here have newer vehicles. Is there anything besides petronix or however it's spelled that y'all would recommend?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 6, 2011, at 11:32 PM, Gary Wilson <gwwilson70@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> It is just getting broke in.  110k is just not the many miles for a
>> Mopar if it has been taken care of and oil changed regular/  I would
>> change to the mopar electric ignition. You can buy the kit or make
>> your own if you have access to a wrecking yard that has some 70s
>> mopars. Just need the dist, brain box and the plug in for the brain
>> box. The rear main is not to bad to change. Drop the pan and pull the
>> rear main cap and then use a chinees wire set up to pull and replace.
>> May has to help it by turning the crank a little to get it moving.  No
>> valve adjust ment on the 383.  Hyd  lifters and came.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 10:26 AM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>> So, I was wondering if y'all think it would be better to keep my motor original and keep the points etc, or switch distributor out of a new electronic. Also how would I go about doing that?
>>>
>>> On a slightly unrelated topic, how hard are the rear main seals to change on the 383? I got a little droplet after running my car, slightly annoying, but on Chevys they weren't that bad with a two piece..just sucks changing them. I gotta take valve covers off soon and put new gaskets cause of leak and I'ma repaint while off. Does anyone know how to adjust valves? I'm thinking no one has never touched the motor and it's got 110k on it...if I had the money and knowledge for a rebuild I'd love to...
>>>
>>> But anyways, while it's running so well and not smoking at all I thought I'd keep it up...is there anyway to tell from the outside whether a motor has been rebuilt before?? The guy I got it from just had it for a short time and didn't know...figured 110k is kindve a lot of a old mopar motor like that...any help would be great!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
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>>>
>>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Gwwilson
>>
>> --
>> --
>> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>>
>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
>> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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>
> --
> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.

-- 
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.