Re: Running Warm

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

Good idea, if you have or can borrow one of the IR non-contact
thermometers it would be easy to check the entire radiator.  Another
good idea was checking your temperature gage.  Just leave the cap off
and put a thermometer in the radiator and when it gets up to around
180 or so check to see what the gage in the car is reading.

I'm still going to suggest that you call them and let them work with
you to try to solve you problem:

http://www.usradiator.com/about/

Please let us know when you solve the problem and what the problem(s)
was.

Dennis C.

On Aug 8, 8:09 pm, Gary Wilson <gwwilso...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I could be wrong but I think that you have a bad radiator.  Was is made in
> China.???  When it gets hot check the radiator its self to see if it has
> cold spots in it.  Just run your hand around the fins to see if it has cool
> spots. If so it is plugs up.  Maybe the fins are not allowing the water to
> flow correctly.  I assume that you have back flushed the engine.  Check the
> timing to be sure that it is not retarded.  Slow timing will heat an engine
> at slow speeds or just idling.  What year is the car and what size is the
> thing.  I have a couple of fan shrouds .
> +
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Bill M <y1topbanan...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > I installed a new and now my Coronet is definitely running warmer than
> > it should.
>
> > Here's the list...
> > 318 Poly, Mild cam, 4-bbl
> > New 4-core copper radiator (US Radiator)
> > New 180 deg thermostat
> > New 16LB cap
>
> > No known issue with the water pump.
> > 7-blade fan w/ clutch (seems to be working) ~1 inch from the rad.
> > No fan shroud
>
> > I swapped the previous 3-core radiator out because it was leaking.
> > With the 3-core setup (no shroud) it never got as hot as fast as it
> > does now. In fact after sitting just a few minutes at a light, this
> > 4-core gets as hot as the 3-core rad did on only the hottest days in
> > July/August.
>
> > I know the lack of a shroud is 1 problem, but I just can't shell out
> > $250 +$50 for mounting hardware for it right now.
>
> > Considering I basically swapped only the rad, it should be acting
> > better than this.
>
> > Any thoughts?
>
> > Bill M
> > 65 Coronet 500 'verthttp://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html
> > 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
> > 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3
>
> > --
> > --
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> > directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
> > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmland
> >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
> >http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
>
> --
> Gwwilson

-- 
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.