|
K
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 1:22 PM
My 64 Polara has had a vibration for a long time. I've
suspected it was the pinion angle since the car is raised a few inches in the
rear, so a few weeks a go I let some air out of the rear shocks and a lot
of the vibration went away, which kinda proves the culprit is probably the
pinion angle. Just FYI. Jeff
To: 1962to1965mopars+digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxFrom:
1962to1965mopars+noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Digest for
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx - 25 Messages in 6 Topics Date: Fri, 15
Jul 2011 18:04:05 +0000
Group: http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars/topics
Mike & Deb
<lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 09:32PM -0400 ^
Hi Jim,
Many
moons ago the dealership I worked at had a spin balancer that
balanced
wheel/tire/drum all together. If I recall the machine was built
by
Hunter. They were sort of dangerous but balanced very well. You might
find an old shop that still uses one.
Mike
LeFevre
On
7/14/2011 11:03 AM, Jim Altemose wrote:
Doug J
<63sprtfury@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 10:56PM -0500 ^
Yup,, used 'em.
Dangerous when it came off the wheel, but no better
balance can be
had.
We used to do the rear wheels on non posi cars at 45 mph (90
real
time). Learned to do that by laying my head on the quarter
panel
above the wheel... When yer head stopped vibrating,,, the wheel
was
balanced.!!! My boss said I was the best bubble balancer in
3
states,,,,,,, I said he was the best spin balancer in the U.S.
He's long
since gone,,, but I stand by the statement. !!!
On
Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:32 PM, Mike & Deb <lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx>
wrot
--
Doug,
'63 Sport Fury 'vert
Jim Altemose
<jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 09:49AM -0400 ^
Doing a little
research on the Internet and I see people mention "hub
runout" in
relation to vibration at highway speeds. What is
hub
runout?
Thanks.
- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long
Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65
Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx Jul 15 10:20AM
-0400 ^
Runout would be
any dimensional changes from original specs, such as loose
tolerances on
the machine work used to produce the item, or core shift when
molded,,,
IE,,,,,, the part when manufactured ran out side of specs
In a
message dated 7/15/2011 8:49:33 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx writes:
What is
hub
runout?
MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Jul 15 10:30AM -0700 ^
Thanks Dodger!,
you just answered a question I mever tryed too figger
out ! I just
thought runout was a general term that meant the part
was not straight.
ie: That would be" run outside "of intended
tolerencs fer
sure!................................MO
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx Jul 15 01:54PM
-0400 ^
The term "run
out" is a slang also used when testing an item,,,, such as
how did the
car run out,,, which also would go back to ,, where was its
performance/handling/ride/etc,,,,, compared to what is in your mind as
to what
the expected specs should be
In a message dated
7/15/2011 12:30:51 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
Thanks Dodger!, you just answered a question I mever
tryed too figger
out ! I just thought runout was a general term that
meant the part
was not straight. ie: That would be" run outside "of
intended
tolerencs fer
sure!................................MO
> Runout would be
any dimensional changes from original specs, such as
loose
>
tolerances on the machine work used to produce the item, or core shift
when
> jaltemo...@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
What is hub
> runout?
--
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"waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx"
<waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 07:59AM -0700 ^
That is just SO
COOL !
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
-----
Reply message -----
From: "Stephen Andrachek"
<s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, Jul 15, 2011 4:44
am
Subject: Nostalgic Super Stock Video
To:
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
At least 90% Mopars.
They continue to dominate just like they always have.
Here's
the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWi5MfLbZT0&feature=related
--
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse
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MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Jul 15 10:44AM -0700 ^
At about 1:20 the
white 64 Dodge. --All bristled up and shak'in her
booty during
burnout----OHHH BUDDY! that gets my
motor
runn'in..............................MO
On Jul 15,
6:44 am, "Stephen Andrachek"
<s.andrac...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Michael Phelps
<mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 09:35PM -0400 ^
I just got a full
set for my car from Year One for $29.99. It included the hood (6) the doors
(4) the trunk (4) though mine only needed two for the trunk. Also the kit
came with bumpers for the ashtray and the glovebox. And four that, well I
haven't figured out where they go yet, maybe the gas filler door/license
plate mount.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my
iPhone
"Donnie Schanz Jr"
<dcs426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 10:11PM -0400 ^
Thanks
Mike.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Phelps"
<mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To:
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011
9:35 PM
Subject: Re: hood bumpers
I just got a
full set for my car from Year One for $29.99. It included the
hood (6)
the doors (4) the trunk (4) though mine only needed two for the
trunk.
Also the kit came with bumpers for the ashtray and the glovebox. And
four that, well I haven't figured out where they go yet, maybe the gas
filler door/license plate mount.
Michael Phelps
Sent
from my iPhone
> You received this message because you are
subscribed to the Google Groups
> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List
Clubhouse" group.
> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person
--
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recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar
Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Ruth Gordon
<kpmvn4wrd@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 02:12AM -0700 ^
Perhaps try
garygoers.com, he'll know also,
Ruth
On
Mike & Deb
<lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 07:38AM -0400 ^
Hi
fellas,
Does any one reproduce the emergency brake stop bumper?
Mike
LeFevre
On
7/15/2011 5:12 AM, Ruth Gordon wrote:
Michael Phelps
<mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 10:07AM -0400 ^
Is there one?
Maybe it's one of the extra bumpers I got in the kit from Year One. I'll
check later and see.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my
iPhone
Mike & Deb
<lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 01:02PM -0400 ^
Michael,
The
em brake up stop is a rectangular shaped bumper with a "blade" style
retainer.
Mike
LeFevre
On
7/15/2011 10:07 AM, Michael Phelps wrote:
Michael Phelps
<mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 01:23PM -0400 ^
Like the ones
that go on the back underside of the trunk lid? Because I got four in the
kit but I only needed two for my trunk. I just assumed they were for other
vehicle applications.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my
iPhone
fd_colorado
<fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 08:11AM -0700 ^
Sleeper
Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys
have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do
you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth
Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g.
14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 -
$5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake
conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag
tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for
~$1500
bucks
???
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx Jul 15 11:43AM
-0400 ^
Drop in a late
model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, but the
parts and
availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, you
will end up
with more HP, for less bucks,,,,,
In a message dated 7/15/2011
10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of
daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend
your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd
achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr
sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels
etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 -
$5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake
conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag
tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for
~$1500
bucks
???
--
--
Please address
private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that
person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as
other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
Mopar topic.
Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse
Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
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"Donnie Schanz Jr"
<dcs426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 12:29PM -0400 ^
Why would you
waste $$$ on disc brakes? My Maxxie runs 11's all day and
stops with the
drums. Too much $$$ to spend on stopping and you should spend
it on
going forward. I would put a 100 shot of NOS before I would do discs.
My
buddy added it to his little 289 Mustang and what a difference. It well
worth the $$$ and not to dangerous. I am not an NOS guy, but I was
impressed.
Donnie
----- Original Message -----
From:
"fd_colorado" <fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar
Mail List Clubhouse"
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:
Friday, July 15, 2011 11:11 AM
Subject: Just daydreaming...Sleeper
ideas?
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of
daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend
your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd
achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr
sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels
etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 -
$5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake
conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag
tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for
~$1500
bucks
???
--
--
Please address
private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that
person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as
other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to
Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Mike & Deb
<lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 01:04PM -0400 ^
Turbo charge
it!
On 7/15/2011 11:11
AM, fd_colorado wrote:
"Gary Pavlovich"
<glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> Jul 15 10:19AM -0700 ^
I would agree
with Dodger that the 360 can build easy HP as the recipes are numerous and
you have any shop that can do the build. However, you need to determine what
your real goals and intentions for your car is. Reading your e-mail lets me
know it is an “original” car so do you want to have the original look with a
wallop packed under the hood – ala, sleeper? How much HP do you want vs.
what you really need to lose traction on the street with Drag
Radials?
We can only give you our opinions as to what we would
do but we know what kind of car we want to build.
Saying that,
I will give you my opinion and best guess as to what you are looking for in
your build; pump gas engine with enough HP and torque to smoke the tires at
will but not unmanageable street manners – it must start easily, not require
extensive tuning to maintain driving pleasure, not require more than 3500rpm
stall convertor and a 3.91 rear gear...a nice looking, hard running, sleeper
car, with that nostalgic 1963MOPAR look & Hot Rod stance (perhaps
aftermarket rims and 235/.60-14 or 15 Drag Radials; Hoosier/BFG/MT) enough
mods to stay within your budget w/o compromising your “performance.” Need to
assess your true street to strip driving ratio as well.
I would
choose the 318 Poly in Hot Street modified form or a 360 Stroker Poly.
Reasons:
No expense and hassle of buying a 360 core engine
and changing the motor mounts and swapping to an externally balanced
convertor for the externally balanced 360 engine.
The 360 is ubiquitous
(everywhere/common) and doesn’t look “right/correct/or impressive at all” in
the engine bay of a 1963 Plymouth” and will maintain or increase the value
and or desirability of your car.
It will also “personalize” your
car...think about what that means to you.
The 318 Poly is
impressive looking (wider than a 440) and appears
correct/nostalgic/generates more attention & questions than a HEMI in
your engine bay...that really is worth something at cruise nights...
“ “
“ will not require any chassis modifications other than to replaced the old
parts – no modifications/adjustments to anything.
“ “ “ High Performance
parts are all available and easily obtained new except for the intake
manifold and there are plenty available on E-bay and swap meets to make this
a non-issue; especially the dual quads.
The 318 Poly will meet and exceed
all your HP & Torque goals without exceeding your budget and easily make
425HP and 450ft.lbs.torque in 360” econo Stroker trim and 350-375HP in HOT
stock stroke trim.
NOTE: read Nick Tiberio’s e-mail comments about his
360 Stroker Poly I forwarded to this list and question some Poly
builder/owners about the pros & cons of their “built” Polys vs. other
options.
You don’t need more than approx. 350-375 REAL HP to reach your
goals outlined in your e-mail with your chassis.
HOT Stock
Stroke Poly:
OEM pistons with head mill to achieve 9 to 9.5 to one ratio;
10 to 1 can be had as well.
Port & polish the heads – 211cfm intake
is enough flow for 425HP and 450ft. lbs. of torque; this with
headers/exhaust gives you the most bang for your buck with an aftermarket
camshaft and four barrel induction.
264/.450” (222@.050”) 110LC solid to
262/.460” (214@.050”) HYD. HP Poly Cam; or 284/.480-.510”
(240-242@.050”)108-110LC Poly Solid Cam to 270/.480” (230@.050”) 110LC HYD.
HP Poly Cam
Four barrel intake or dual quad
Stock 1.84/1.56” valves OK
or upgrade to 1.94/1.60” if budget allows
TTI Headers a must with good 2
1/2” dual exhaust w/H or X pipe through Dynomax Super Turbos or
Flowmasters...personal choice here
A 2500-3000rpm high stall convertor is
recommended, but not necessary for the first stage of cam profiles but
mandatory for the second choice of cam profiles and preferably a
3000-3500rpm convertor
Rear gears will greatly enhance any engine
modifications and a minimum of 3.23 gears are requisite for any build past
stock if you want to “feel” the value-added to your engine build; 3.23-3.91
for the first step and 3.55-4.10 for the second step
recommended.
Electronic Ignition for stock and modified Poly
recommended
Engine balancing and unleaded seats are “standard” in all
engine builds as far as I am concerned.
360 Stroker
Poly:
All the above with the exception of using LA low-compression truck
pistons and fly-cutting the pistons for an intake valve relief; choice of 9
to 10 to 1 compression ratio.
Please e-mail me off-list for
more information or a list of the parts suppliers, local machine shops, and
current prices I have been able to catalog for our “PolyHeads” to make your
shopping and engine building easy.
Prices are always changing in the
marketplace but I try to do a search for the best part at the lowest price
and pass it along to our Mail List people.
Take care,
Gary
Pavlovich
From:
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:43 AM
To:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Just
daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we
all know that a poly can be built, but the parts and availability of the
later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, you will end up with more HP, for less
bucks,,,,,
In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central
Daylight Time, fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Sleeper
Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys
have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do
you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth
Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g.
14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 -
$5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake
conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag
tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for
~$1500
bucks
???
--
--
Please address
private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that
person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse
public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.
Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person
-- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse
Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Allen Sullivant
<dart440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 08:49PM -0500 ^
Greetings,
My
62 Dart sedan is sitting up right now, outside, slowly going
to pot. It
would be drivable were I to get the carb rebuilt (float
stuck, leaks gas
all over the place) and the blown exhaust manifold
gaskets replaced so it
doesn't sound like an Alco locomotive on
steroids. But there's one thing
I'd like to take care of, the
better to keep things dry on the inside,
which is this:
The driver's side rear door don't latch any
longer. It just bangs
without catching. The door handle mechanism is not
stuck, either
inside or on the outside. The little star wheel in the door
spins
freely. Any ideas or easy
fixes?
Thanks,
Allen Sullivant
Brentwood,
Tn.
neal zimmerman
<neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 06:53PM -0700 ^
hows the droop
factor of the door? hinges shot?? also could the
receptacle in the door
jamb have shifted? banging means metal on metal
is occuring most
likely
neal
Ray Bell
<raybell46@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 06:37PM -0700 ^
Ron Martin had
his '64 wagon 'Golden Anniversary Model' on the old
dodgepolara.com site
(is that still around?) and I'm sure he told me
it was a limited edition
in special colours.
Gorgeous old
wagon!
Ray
-- -- Please
address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to
that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as
other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse
public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total
volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.
Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. --
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only
one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal
to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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