Re: Electronic ignition conversion

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

Ruth,

I agree with comments that have been made:

You can get a voltage regulator that directly replaces the original
unit.  I found that If I ask the parts guy to check his stock there
may be as many as 3 different ones that are all electronic that are
the same except for the cover.  I found one with with a metal cap that
could be switched with the original unit.

As far as Pertronix I agree.  I think it is the best choice if you
want a stock look.  You can even go with the Flame Thrower that has
the internal rev-limiter.  I did have a problem with my Pertronix unit
but they took care of it in a timely manner.  When I talked to
Pertronix I was concerned about the coil I was using.  I was told by
them that with the unit I had I could use any coil, the unit would
limit the current as needed.  I went with their coil that looked like
the stock coil and as said I simply removed the label.  I did keep my
ballast resistor but put a jumper on it.  I like the idea of soldering
a wire under it, cleaner that what I did.

Nothing wrong with using a Mopar unit but I did not want the control
box under the hood, I am not stock but I still wanted the general look
to be stock.

Take Care
Dennis C.



On Nov 14, 8:42 am, Ruth Gordon <kpmvn4...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks. I agree completely. I call my car project a
> resto-rection....Resurrecting the dead and as stock as reasonable in
> knowing it will never be stock again due to it's past owners! The 440
> engine I got is from 1976 and does have the original ECU which still
> works!!! I got a new engine wiring harness with conversion buit in, which
> did not have the correct VR wire plugs to mate to the VR I was sold as
> being right for the ECU unit. That sent me on a reserch journey as I don't
> know much about matching every component up to work right!! I only had an
> Alt. which came with the engine and no other electricals. Had to go get
> everything and hope it kluged. Even with the ECU set up I was still told to
> just buy new stuff  for my year car. The shops who I spoke to know my car
> and that it's not stock. Sure hope I wasn't misinformed... Even my NAPA
> mopar guy said that. I guess I'll find out in time huh. Not really on the
> road yet, but running. I've rebuilt the entire brake system, dual MC
> conversion for safety too. Remember the Johnny Cash song about a car being
> made from many different years and parts- I'm there!! The ballast resistor
> as I recall was supposed to be between 1.2 - 1.8 ohms I think??? Correct
> that if it's wrong! The one for the year and make of my car was in that
> range so I was good to go there - hopefully. PS, I like your big bold print
> for when I don't have my specs on! Ruth On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 5:47 AM, <
>
> Dodger7...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > **
> > Ruth,,,, consider where your information came from,,,, they were
> > restoration places,,,, yes if you want to have a restoration, leave it
> > stock, if you want a car that see very much use, then upgrades including
> > brakes, electronics, seat belts,,,,,or any other safety items are the way
> > to go
>
> >  In a message dated 11/14/2011 1:19:01 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> > kpmvn4...@xxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> > I had same question recently and called 2 professional Dodge resto people
> > and was told the same from both of them - get what is right for your year
> > car. Ruth
>
> >  --
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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