Re: Missing cylinders

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

I'm going to take a totally wild shot and tell you about a problem I
had with a cylinder problem and fouled plug.

I ran a compression check and the fouled cylinder had a higher
pressure than the others and higher than the last time I checked it.
The plug was oil fouled.  I pulled the intake manifold and the valley
pan was leaking oil into the intake runners on a couple cylinders but
the biggest leak was into cylinder #7 that was fouled.

I have no history on the engine so I reinstalled the intake with a new
valley pan with fiber gaskets on the intake manifold side.  I
installed new plugs and rechecked plugs and compressing after about
500 miles, plugs all clean, compression back down to normal.  The
higher compression must have been due to carbon deposits in the
cylinder.

Not saying this is your problem, just telling a story about a problem
I had.

Dennis C.

On Nov 26, 7:58 pm, Jim Altemose <jaltemo...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks Nick and all.  Vacuum is cool; learning a lot.
>
> Made some progress.  This is regarding my 383 4 barrel Carter AFB
> missing cylinders.  First thing I did was replace the plugs with
> Autolite 85 plugs.  Big difference; car's running well right away; I
> don't think I'm missing any now.  But they're all the same fouled "wet
> fouling with small deposits".
>
> I was using Champion RJ12YC plugs.  These were recommended in the
> manual for the 383 2 barrel which is what I originally had.  But a
> couple of years ago I replaced the 2 barrel with a 4 barrel Carter
> AFB.  The manual for a 383 4 Barrel says J-9Y.  Maybe this is why
> they're fouled?  Since I went to the 4 barrel should I be using a
> different plug and would that make a difference?  The ones I just put
> in are Autolite 85; is that OK?
>
> Vacuum from the PVC valve reads what looks like a pretty steady 18
> with about a 1 pound constant fluctuation either way; very rapid
> flapping.
>
> Tomorrow I'm planning to dig into the timing and idle mixture
> adjustments.  One strange thing though.  I checked the distributor and
> rotor.  Rotor is a little bit more burned on one edge of the contact,
> and if I look at the distributor contacts. a couple of cylinders are
> more clearly burned dead center.  Then as you move around, the
> cylinder connections become more burned to the right, then they drift
> back again toward center.  In other words, the 'burn marks' aren't
> dead center on each contact inside the distributor; it drifts off and
> then back again over the eight.  This seems strange to me.  If the
> timing were off, wouldn't each cylinder 'burn mark' be the off by the
> same amount?
>
> The distributor doesn't have points; when I got the car 4 or 5 years
> back it had already been replaced.  I'm not sure if it's Mopar or
> Pertronix or what.  Below are a couple of photos.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/115013310552314897903/November262011
>
> My plan is to adjust the timing and then idle mixture and keep on eye
> on the vacuum.  I'm not an expert at tuning but always looking to
> learn.  Any comments, advice or tips are much appreciated.
>
>  As always, thank.
>
> - Jim
> Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
> '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
> '63 Polara 500 (383)
> '65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
> '71 Bronco
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 12:53 PM,  <furyu...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Jim,
>
> > If you decide to go the vacuum gauge route, here is another good chart for
> > trouble shooting, two pages with 17 readings.
>
> > Nick Tiberio
>
> > FuryUs63
>
> > ________________________________
>
> > From: "Richard Kinsley" <leroar.kinsley...@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 11:33:11 PM
> > Subject: Re: Missing cylinders
>
> > Hook a vac gauge up to it too and see what the needle does. It can be a very
> > helpful tool.
>
> > Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
> > =======================================================================
>
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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