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Russell,
Good question on building a 440 compared to a 318 Poly Stroker. The
440 is an extremely powerful engine and will make more HP & Torque than a
Stroker Poly by reason of its larger base cubic inches and where you can go from
there...500+ cubes...
Yes, most people build Poly Stroker’s because they make great HP &
Torque and make superior AVERAGE HP & Torque compared to most engines., and
most notably, they are very different and impressive in appearance especially
with finned aluminum valve covers. Cost-wise, if a person starts with no
core for either powerplant, it is cheaper to build a Poly as the core engine is
usually “free” and they are easily obtained. The only expensive parts to a
Poly Stroker are custom pistons (approx. $800+ retail) and possibly the intake
manifold if you don’t opt for the cast iron dual quad which is reasonably
priced.
I can make the parts selection and build process “easy” because I have been
“playing” with these motors for a long time and I don’t count the cost of my
time researching/building/helping others with their Poly projects; a labor of
love if you will.
A MAX WEDGE clone will be far more expensive than building a Stroker Poly
but the MAX WEDGE is unique (and valuable!) and a great piece of racing history
so any imitation is always worthwhile in my opinion.
If you ask if it is “worth it” to build any 318 Poly from a purely
horsepower and torque standpoint then I would have to ask what your HP &
Torque goal is? And the simple answer that puts to rest much jaw-jacking
to no profit on the subject is to say that if you are happy with
440-450ft. lbs. of torque at 3300RPM and 400-420HP at 5300RPM and
from 3500-5500 RPM getting an AVERAGE of 428ft.lbs. of Torque and
375 AVERAGE Horsepower then build a Poly. I have
all the dyno sheets for these numbers and it is achieved with 9.5 compression,
1957 cast iron dual quad intake, 234@.050” .480”
Hyd. flat tappet Cam, 211cfm Intake flow at .500” lift (yawn...), 1.94/1.60”
valves, homemade headers...
Objectively speaking, those peak and especially the average HP & Torque
numbers are hard to equal with the ancient and low-tech parts used.
If I/we had Edelbrock alum. heads and RPM Air Gap manifolds I would say the Poly
HP & Torque numbers would equal or surpass any Stroker Small Block Mopar and
thus rival most Big Block stock stroke engines. All I need is more CFM
pumping through the Poly heads to realize those gains as the Polyspherical
chamber is a superior design compared to a Wedge-style chamber and this is
purely design proven and not “affection driven.”
Common Poly Stroker packages are 350-360” (can make around 440HP at
6000rpm) and 390-402” (good HP and big torque at low RPM) and can be tailored to
your needs/wants within the aforementioned parameters.
My friend Don Dulmage is currently building a 318 Poly (yes, stock stroke)
Dragster and we shall see how that turns out. A stock stroke Poly is no
slouch either and will rev itself to the moon, ala Rich Kinsley’s ‘64 Polara,
and is a great small block contender against any bow tie or blue oval
competitor.
Gary Pavlovich
You'll
definitely have an easier and cheaper time building a 440, and the power will
come easier. I'm sticking with the poly as I want it to look pretty original and
they are something different. Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1 73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie 21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3 On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 2:16 PM, <mrdozerman@xxxxxxx>
wrote: I gotta ask the question, since I am building a 62 max wedge clone, numbers mean nothing to me,but found a 68 HP 440 and putting a max wedge cross ram on it with newer ederbrock 750's, mainly because of cost compared to correct carbs,Is building any poly worth it or even a 413 compared to a 440,especially finding motorhome engines that can run circles around them, or is it the love to be different.not trying to be smart ,just grew up knowing cubes are cubes and 318 versus 440 and see the same money spent on rebuilds. I think I am missing something,please don't hate me LOL? thanks Russell -- -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. |
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