I am thinking that I heard you had replaced the rotor, which would be the
most likely culprit,,,
In a message dated 12/20/2012 3:38:39 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx writes:
Thanks
for your help and patience.
Car was running fine two weeks ago when I
parked it. Topped off brake fluid due to soft pedal. Fixed the
soft the pedal and went to start it up. Did nothing else. When
sitting for more than a couple of days, it takes a while of turning over to
start. Now it's not showing any signs at all of catching although it's
turning over well (I've connected my jump-box).
Pulled coil to
distributor wire from distributor; positioned it near my A/C bracket and see
what I thought was a good spark. Unplugged #1 plug wire from plug, stuck
in a bolt to give me a good connection. Positioned wire near same
bracket; no spark. Changed rotor; no spark.
I'm admittedly
an amateur, so I'll repeat all of this. I have a new distributor cap I
can try. I can also try bypassing the the ballast resistor since it's a
pertronix ignitor.
- Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY '63 Polara
500 (Max Wedge) '63 Polara 500 (383) '65 Belvedere I (Street
Wedge) '71 Bronco
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 4:19 PM, Bill Paxton <wmp4@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Check
your grounds?
When
did it start doing this? Was it running fine
before?
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Jim Altemose Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 4:01
PM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re:
Pertronix
No, but I can try that.
I pulled the number 1 plug wire from the plug and wasn't getting a spark to
ground. (I stuck in a bolt that was the right size into the rubber
sleeve.) I didn't bother with any of the other wires since I'm getting
no signs of firing on any cylinders. It's turning over well, but no
hint of the engine firing. Wires and cap and rotor are only 2 years
old. Plugs are 1 year old. I smell more gas as I'm turning it,
so I'm guessing my fuel delivery is OK, but I can check that too.
As
always, thanks.
- Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY '63 Polara
500 (Max Wedge) '63 Polara 500 (383) '65 Belvedere I (Street
Wedge) '71 Bronco
On Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
You should have 12v to the coil side of the
resistor to run correctly. Have you pulled a plug wire
from the cap to see if spark will jump from the cap to
a ground? The wires can look good but be bad and do exactly
what your describing. By just spraying WD40 on the wires
will displace moisture enough to start.
-------Original
Message-------
Date: 12/20/2012
9:31:36 AM
Thanks Herb.
Do I
have this right? You're saying that although I visually see what
looks like a strong spark coming out of the coil into the distributor,
it may still not be enough? I should try bypassing the ballast
resistor? Is this something I can measure with a meter?
Just to rehash, I'm getting what looks like a good spark from
the wire that goes into the distributor from the coil. But no
spark from the plug wires. I've replaced the rotor; the next
thing I was going to try is replacing the cap. It's a pertronix
ignitor.
Thanks.
- Jim Jim Altemose, Long Island,
NY '63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge) '63 Polara 500 (383) '65
Belvedere I (Street Wedge) '71 Bronco
On
Thu, Dec 20, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Too low of voltage to run correctly.
Common mistake on Pertronix installs. When electronic
items get to a minimum voltage they just shutoff, and that
voltage, is negatively effected by heat, hence driving down
the road and it just shuts off. Your running at about 7
volts with the resistor and a lot of 12
volt items will shut down at 5 or 6 volts. So
your running right at the thresh hold of dyeing all the
time! Its best to bypass a good resister behind
it, or I save old bad ones and solder a wire from spade to
spade behind it. That way you keep it looking like Ma
MoPar wanted it to look. And from loosing points at car
shows if your in to that. Or, if your not, just eliminate
it all together.
Herb
1954
DeSoto Firedome Estate Wagon 276
HEMI
1956
Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
1959
Dodge Coronet 326 Poly
1961
Plymouth Belvedere Custom Suburban Wagon 318
Poly
1961
Dodge Dart Pioneer Wagon 318
Poly
1963
Plymouth Fury 2D/HT 7.0L Gen III
HEMI
1963
Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible
361
1970
Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
1979
Dodge Aspen Sport Wagon 360
-------Original
Message-------
Date: 12/20/2012 8:00:53
AM
Interesting. Is there any downside
to keeping the resistor?
Jim Altemose, Long Island,
NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max
Wedge)
'65 Belvedere I (Street
Wedge)
> with the petronix you dont need a
resistor,if you want to keep it looking
> stock you can take the resistor out from
the back and replace it with wire
> ,crimped into the stock
connections,reinstall,and you can't
tell.
>> I'm with ya too Dodger,, and like
Gary said,,, it is getting harder to
>> find even 70's or 80's mopes in the
junk yards. However,, when I
finally
>> did my conversion on the '63 last
year, the only "new" part I bought
was a
>> ballast
resistor. Although I cheated a bit, as I had an old
orange box yet
>> from my last "race" car that had
only a season on it before I upgraded
the
>> ignition system. Still,,
that was "old" money. LOL Can not believe
how
>> much better the old girl starts with
the electronic conversion. I put
the
>> control box on the radiator support
behind the horns. Casual
observers
>> don't even notice it. Of course you
guys would spot it in an instant,, which
>> is what I like about the group. All
the great knowledge.
>> BTW, I wouldn't be afraid of the
Pertronix unit, I had that system on an
>> old Massey Harris loader tractor on
my acreage for years, it was like a kiss
>> from heaven when it came to cold
weather starts. Which is a real test for
>> Please address private email --
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practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and
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intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone
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protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the
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