Re: 12v switched source
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Re: 12v switched source



Neal,

Sorry, one more comment:

The tach can be connected after the fuse where you connect the wire to the choke.  Depending on the butt connector you use sometimes it is possible to put one wire in one end and two wires in the other end.  The end with the two wires will have the wires for the tach and choke but however you do it the tach should be after the fuse.

Dennis C.

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 8:22:44 PM UTC-7, Dennis C. wrote:
Neal,

I forgot to add that you will want to check the fuse a couple of times when running the engine, if it opens the choke will go back on even though the engine is warm.

Take Care
Dennis C.

On Saturday, October 19, 2013 8:16:45 PM UTC-7, Dennis C. wrote:
Neal,

I'll give a way that I could do it and I HOPE others will give their advice also.

Install the battery - fully charged

Disconnect wires from both ends of the ballast resistor, don't let them touch any metal.

Turn on the ignition switch

Check which wire that went to the ballast resistor has 12 volts, you can use your meter or a simple test light is just fine.

The wire with the 12 volts is the one you will use for the choke.

Turn the ignition switch off.

The wire connected with a "push-on" connector.  You can go to the auto parts store and get an adapter that pushes onto the ballast resistor but has two places to attach push-on connectors.  While you are in the store get a fuse holder and fuses.  It will be $3.00 to $4.00 for the fuse holder, get the one that takes the modern fuses, not the old glass type.  The fuse holder will have about 3" of wire on each side for wiring into the circuit.  If you don't have fuses get a small assortment pack that goes with the fuse holder, verify with the store you are getting the correct fuses, there are a couple of physical sizes that are very similar.  If you don't have crimp push-on connectors it is a good time to get a few.

Crimp a push-on connector to one end of the fuse holder.

Attach it to the 2nd connection on the ballast resistor adapter you bought, at this time all wires will be back on the ballast resistor.

Run a wire from the other end of the fuse holder to the electric choke.  Typically a crimp butt splice connector works well from the fuse holder to the wire.  I expect you will have a push-on connector on the choke, if you do crimp a push-on connector on the wire that attaches to the choke.

Per a prior email I suggest that you start with a 10 Amp fuse or if you can find a manual for your carb use what they suggest.  Only go to the next size up if the fuse blows.

Turn the key back on and check with a meter or test light that you have power to the choke.

Turn the key back off when you have verified power.  The one problem with electric chokes is that they do not know the engine temperature.  If you leave the key on without starting the engine the choke will heat and fully open.

In other words when you turn the key on start the engine or be aware that if you leave the key on by the time you start the engine the choke may be fully open.

If you have any problems anywhere in this send me a personal message with your telephone number and a good time to call and I'll be happy to go over this with you over the phone.

Good Luck
Dennis C.





On Saturday, October 19, 2013 7:07:01 PM UTC-7, neal wrote:
OK, I am really close now to fire up. I need to figure out the electric choke and wire in the tach, both of which need a 12v switched source. Can somebody walk me through how to do this. I understand what it is, but I know nothing about  how to  find it. I do have a multimeter i bought a  few years ago and have never learned to use it LOL. I assume the battery needs to be installed in the car.
  Neal  Zimmerman, Eugene Oregon

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