Mike, you can check your factory gauges with two AA batteries
connected in series. The + side goes to gauge terminal marked A and
the - side goes to terminal S. Except for the ammeter, because its
workings are entirely different. This test should give you a
reading around half scale or a bit more and won't damage the
gauges. To test the ammeter, apply +12 volts to one terminal
(doesn't matter which one) and ground the other briefly. The meter
should peg in one direction (again, doesn't matter which). Now,
reverse those connections and the meter should peg in the other
direction. Don't leave the ammeter connected, just a brief
connection (say 1/2 second or so - just long enough to see the meter
peg). Another test that's quick and easy is to check the meters for
shorts. All the gauges should show "about" 20 ohms. These tests
only check that the meters are functional, they do not guarantee
accuracy.
That lead marked gauge power will be 12 volts. and will kill your
factory gauges!!! You need to connect that wire to the Instrument
Voltage Regulator terminal marked "I". With the cluster's ground
buss connected to ground and the gauge power wire connected you can
briefly ground the "S" terminals of your gas and temp gauges. The
meters should go to full scale in a second or so. Don't leave that
terminal grounded for more than a few seconds or you may damage the
gauge. If you're using your trickle charger negative wire to ground
the cluster, this may not work, because the gauges need a certain
amount of current to operate.
There are folks doing business on the net who can clean and
calibrate your gauges and restore the meter scales to like new
condition.
Check the Vendor section linked from the website homepage.
Navigating the wiring diagrams to get the right one is a little
tricky. At the bottom of each page, there is a model designation.
Your Belv. II with V-8 engine is model AR-2
And, of course, the factory wiring diagrams won't help with the
EZWiring. They show how it was designed and that helps to figure
out how to use aftermarket wiring.
All for now!
BC
On 11/9/2013 10:45 AM, Michael Phelps
wrote:
Thanks for the response Bob. I'm actually using a
trickle charger connected to the battery cables just to see
if I'm getting things hooked up correctly. I have all my
switches hooked up and working and now I'm just trying to
get the instruments connected and working so I can start to
button things up and get the fresh rebuilt 361 fired up for
the first time. I still have a long way to go and a few bugs
to iron out but I think I'm on the right track. Thanks for
the tip on adding the ground wire, I'll do that.
I'm not planning on adding any high power add on's to
the car, I'm trying to stay as stock as possible. I have the
stock Alt. The wiring kit has one lead marked gauge power
and is shown in the kit diagram as going to one side of each
gauge for power and then the other side is ground. This
diagram is shown with a volt meter, am I better off going
with a volt meter or should I stay with the stock ammeter,
it seemed to work ok before I took everything apart. The
ammeter is hooked up independently to the started solenoid
and alt. isn't it?
I'll take a closer look at the FSM you sent.
Any other suggestions or guidance would be
appreciated.
Mike
1965 Belvedere II Convertible
The instrument cluster in our Mopars is
SUPPOSED to be grounded through the mounting
screws to the dash frame. If you're working on
the cluster using the car to power it, you need a
wire from the cluster ground to a good solid body
ground. It's a good idea to add that wire to the
stock cluster anyway, otherwise the cluster may
become intermittent.
Here is a complete '65 Plymouth Factory Service
Manual:
http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=508e022f256315a50e8e5af8c001704f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forabodiesonly.com%2Fmopar%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D244981&out=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dropbox.com%2Fs%2Fupks33txhbe9tjw%2F1965%2520Plymouth%2520Service%2520Manual.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forabodiesonly.com%2Fmopar%2Fforumdisplay.php%3Ff%3D35
wrote:
I think you are asking how the instrument cluster on a 1965 Plymouth "B" is grounded? Is that right?
Also, while you have the cluster out it is a good time to consider having that ammeter gauge converted to a dc gauge.
Thanks,
Gary H.
-------Original Message-------
From: Michael Phelps
Hello all. I'm trying to hook up my instrument panel during the rewiring
process. I'm using the EZwire kit. I have everything connected but I'm not
sure about grounding the panel. Is it grounded through the mounting screws
to the dash? I'm running power through it but I'm only seeing any current
using a test light that's grounded to the dash. I have the instrument power
connected to one side of the temp gauge and one side of the oil pressure
warning light and gas gauge. I know I need to run power through the ammeter
but that can come later correct? Any help or suggestions would be
appreciated.
65 Belvedere II Convertible.
Michael PhelpsSent from my iPhone
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car
transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages,
only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send
your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public
email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar
topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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