|
Like anything would be nice to have the correct “rocker shaft lock plug" removal tool, whatever that looks like. Can’t part with my rear brake hub puller for example, never know when
I might need it again. On my heads the machine shop must have had the correct tool, since they came back last Spring from the valve job looking un-damaged. Get to heft those heads off the engine again after
this driving season - still getting blow-by - time for the bottom end. On the parts quest now - have a “Little Big Cam” 256 camshaft coming this week from Gary P to improve the Poly’s heartbeat and blood flow.......... ; ) From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Richard Kinsley I also use a small prybar. I just use the nail slot on the angled side to get leverage and they pop out easily. I damaged a few before with the vise grip scenario. Rich Kinsley On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 3:25 PM, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote: Bill, Two ways of easy removal, firstly a shop usually has a dowel pin removal tool that works flawlessly, secondly you may do it easily at home with a Sears/Home Depot/Lowes/Harbor
Freight angled pry bar with the “tear drop” hole in the shank for nail removal. You will need to get the right pry bar with the correct size hole in the shank; my Sears “Reverse Hook – Flat Pry Bar” #937330 (upc 51218 45310) has the correct size hole
for pin removal. Gary Pavlovich Anyone have a good trick for removal of the Poly rocker shaft lock (brass, push interference fit into pedestal holding rocker shaft in place)? I received
some advice years ago of "just twist and pull" which resulted in a broken off lock. I have (2) "junk" (rusted heads that have good locks. I'd like to pull them before I get rid of them. OR do you have a suggestion for a better alternate shaft locking method?
Seems to me this method sucks. Side note...if anyone wants these heads, I'll GIVE them to you with free delivery to Carlisle this Friday 7/11. Did I say they are rusty? If not, they are rusty!
--
--
-- -- -- -- Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. |
Attachment:
DD_001.jpg
Description: DD_001.jpg
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
