I like to do the same - but using 1” long or longer allen set screws - have a tray full of different sizes. Great for manifolds, fuel pumps, oil pans, anything need quick accurate
alignment when dealing with gaskets and sealants.
Also have been successful using Permatex Right Stuff in place of manifold and oil pan end seals - such as the one mentioned at the front timing cover. They should call it fantastic
stuff.......
From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Bill Stevson
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2018 7:58 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: replacing oil pan seal on '64 Sport Fury with a 383
Dennis, thanks for mentioning using the headless bolts, I had never heard or thought of doing that, but I will definitely do that in the future.
I got off track, you are just asking about the oil pan gasket not the rear oil seal.
You will have an issue at the front of the pan where it goes under the timing gear cover. This is another part where it can be difficult to seal without having an oil leak.
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 7:09:51 PM UTC-7, dennis.1963ply wrote:
I have changed the seal a couple of times on my 63 Sport Fury with the 383 without lifting the engine.
There is room without lifting the engine but the steering link must be dropped. I changed mine just dropping the link however I suspect lifting the engine a little would be a great help. The reason I've
done it a couple of times is that I have screwed up the installation a couple of times before getting it to stop leaking.
The only suggestion I have for changing the seal is to use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off and slotted on the end to guide the seal retainer in when installing. I also made of some similar bolts
without heads to align the pan when reinstalling.
If anyone has a foolproof rear seal kit recommendation and the procedure for installing the seal it would really be appreciated.
On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 10:46:27 AM UTC-7, Douglas Sutherland wrote:
I have a leak at the top of my oil pan on the seal.
My local shops software only goes back to 1968 to estimate labor hours.
Does the engine have to be "lifted" to replace the oil pan
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit
https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to
1962to1965mopars+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
