Re: Update on Rusted Freeze Plugs

Thanks Gary, I think I'll order this filter (1 1/2" for the 440 upper radiator hose), since I'm not sure I'll be able to get all rust out of the water jackets. I wonder if you couldn't place a small powerful magnet in the filter to help catch more of the metallic particles that might pass through the screen?

Wade

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 11:43:18 AM UTC-6, glpav...@xxxxxxx wrote:

Hi Bill,
After your thorough cleaning, my suggestion to provide protection from residue rust clogging your radiator is to install a radiator filter. The “only” radiator filter I recommend is the TEFBA out of Australia. It fits in the upper radiator hose with a cap for inspection/cleaning the stainless steel screen that collect rust, old gasket particles and debris. The nice feature is no coolant is lost when you remove the cap, unlike other “filters” that are clamped and require removal for cleaning…
I have used the TEFBA on my 340 Dart for over 25yrs. and it still catches old silicone gasket/sealant materials along with ongoing rust debris which means my Hi-Efficiency three-core radiator has not required any rodding & cleaning services whatsoever and it is as “clean” now as when first installed using the radiator hose filter.

Gary P.
http://www.tefbafilters.com/

• Sizes:
1 1/4"
1 1/2"
1 3/4"
2".
IT WILL EXTEND THE LIFE AND LAST THE LIFETIME OF YOUR VEHICLE
O-RING
SEAL
STAINLESS
STEEL
FILTER
PHOSPHOR-BRONZE
TENSION SPRING
The Tefba filter is a pretty clever design. It fits inside any straight section of existing radiator hose.
The filter itself is a stainless steel mesh screen, situated in a "U" configuration so that the flow of coolant tends to capture particles (rather like a fishnet),
which is resting on a platform that can be pulled out of the housing after unscrewing the lid.
There's no need to undo the hoses every time it needs to be cleaned, either.
The Tefba filter has a cap on it, sealed with an O-ring, which is used as the exit for the filter.
Choose size to suit your radiator hose's Inside Diameter:
1-1/4", 1 1/2", 1-3/4" or 2"
Kit now also includes:
2 grades of Filter screens
2 Quality hose clamps
1 spare O-Ring Seal

From: 1962to19...@googlegroups.com <1962to19...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Bill Parker
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 8:08 PM
To: 1962to19...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Update on Rusted Freeze Plugs

Wade, in the 80’s I moonlighted working on Mopars for those in the area getting into the new trend to go Mopar. A buddy and I worked together many evenings. One of our specialties became doing the job you are facing. We got to where we could do the whole job in 3 hours from when the overheating car or truck arrived until job was finished. But again we did dozens. We pulled the engine, popped all plugs, used pressure water to rinse the jackets, installed new plugs, and put er back together. Always took care of the problem. I do understand that you are wanting to be especially thorough on your own engine of course.

On Jun 17, 2020, at 9:38 PM, Wade's '62 Sport Fury <dwadel...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Sorry, pictures now attached. Wade

On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 7:32:09 PM UTC-6, Wade's '62 Sport Fury wrote:
Gang,

Quick update on my rusted freeze plugs issue I posted yesterday (thanks for your responses). We pulled out the engine, removed the manifold / heads / camshaft to get a real good look at everything. Luckily, the rust was contained to just the water jacket....but boy howdy, is it every rusty . When we pulled the 6 side freeze plugs, there was probably 1/2 inch of "rust dust" around each plug hole. Some of that I'm sure was from the plugs themselves, but some must have been higher in the block. The coolant holes in the heads are also pretty rusty. See attached photos if you're morbidly curious.

Here's my planned next steps, please let me know if I'm smoking crack or if you have other suggestions:

1. I'm going to vacuum out all the rust dust I can reach, and then use wire & bottle brushes to try and loosen up as much rust as I can - I might even put a gun-cleaning brush on a drill to get the small holes. I'll vacuum at the same time and take care to keep dust out of the engine guts.

2. After a good vacuum job, I'll seal up the engine top and then blow a lot of compressed air through the water jacket.

3. I'll take the engine outside and try to run some plain water and perhaps a little vineager through the coolant areas for a first initial flush - again, taking care not to get junk in the top of the engine.

4. After installing BRASS freeze plugs, we'll reassemble & reinstall the engine. We'll either use an older "sacrificial" radiator, or just bypass the radiator. We'll fill it full of some type of block flush chemical (like Thermocool) and let it cycle through for a few minutes, before shutting it off and leaving it for a day or two.

5. We'll drain the fluid, probably repeat the flush step until it looks clean, before putting the real radiator & coolant back in.

6. We'll check the coolant again after a few weeks.

Here's the moral of the story and a lesson learned for you: don't leave an engine block empty and assume it is dry, and leave it outside for 5 years sealed up except for the radiator cap!
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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