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 A-466 Cast iron Torqueflite Fixture needed to reassemble sprague?Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
| Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear Axle | Message format |
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295   | So I've been able to do a work around on all the special tools so far but not this one. Has anyone run into this issue and found a simple work around to get the over running clutch reassembled? The "fixture" the manual shows it's just a base to hold pins and it appears the pins go up through the holes in the clutch and keeps the rollers and springs in place which allows you to set the hub in, pull the fixture which releases the rollers and springs to ride against the hub. I didn't even attempt to try to put the parts in see if I could get the hub in, you can see the wear pattern where the hub touches the "floor" where the rollers and springs go. It doesn't look like it would even be possible to do that way. Maybe I'm wrong, hope I am. I kinda doubt I'll be able to stop down to the Dodge dealership and pick a fixture up tomorrow LOL. So, has anyone come up with a work around for that? If not, has anyone got one they'd like to sell or loan to a really trustworthy guy? The Service Manual says the tool's number is C-3527. There's Supposed to be a special tool section in the manual somewhere but I'm having a hard time finding it. I did try doing a google search. It didn't get me anywhere. So I'm hoping someone can me out of this jam. The fixture shown in figure 88 on page 395 of the original manual. The page number of the file is is 396. I'll put up a couple of pictures. Thanks, Wayne (overrunning clutch rollers and springs.jpg) (underside of overrunning clutch.jpg) Attachments ----------------  overrunning clutch rollers and springs.jpg (94KB - 212 downloads) underside of overrunning clutch.jpg (105KB - 196 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900    Location: Lower Mainland BC | . This might help. At first glance, it looks like you could make workable C-3527 with a bit of plywood and some appropriate diameter bolts (and nuts and washers) The real one was made by Miller Manufacturing. In reference to the photo below, this is the call out: "Left to right from the upper circular tool in the middle, they are: C-3527 Torque-Flite over-running Clutch Assy. gauge SP-1786 (no other info) C-293-3 (no other info) *three tools in upper right corner have no markings* next row: C-3861 Remover front pump seal C-3690 (no other info) C-3753 Remover trans. main shaft seal C-3757 Installer trans. front pump seal C-3823 Driver & thimble trans. drive shaft seal C-3754 Driver trans. main shaft seal MD 998005 (no other info; may not be Miller) C-3770 Installer & remover needle bearing SP-3390 (no other info) next row: C-3762 Rear pump housing aligning C-3864 Rear pump cover aligning SP-5148 (says use with C-3550, which wasn't included) C-3286 (no other info) Snap-On S-9580 (crescent-shaped tool; no other info) next row, bolt-shaped tool: SP-3701 (no other info)" REFERENCE: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/chrysler-torqueflite-tools.561689/ Edited by 56D500boy 2020-10-26 2:50 AM (DSC_1697.jpg) (MillerC-3527_1_Small.jpg) (MillerC-3527_2_small.jpg) (MillerC-3527_3.jpg) (C-3527InAction.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC_1697.jpg (56KB - 197 downloads) MillerC-3527_1_Small.jpg (209KB - 186 downloads) MillerC-3527_2_small.jpg (226KB - 198 downloads) MillerC-3527_3.jpg (124KB - 201 downloads) C-3527InAction.jpg (148KB - 203 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13045  Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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| jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | |||
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| jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | jboymechanic - 2020-10-26 8:36 AM If you want to make your own tool, it's pretty easy. I made a drawing years ago, and still have my tool in my box should I ever need it again. http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=50345&... I am not understanding a) the need for the flat sides on the pins and b) the orientation of those flat sides (??)  | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13045 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The flat sides keeps the rollers in place more safely, but as you see on my tool it works with round pins as well. (IMG_2261-rez.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_2261-rez.jpg (302KB - 193 downloads) | ||
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| jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | Well, I did find a "work-around". I tried the "nails in a 2x4" method. That would have worked just fine for a situation you may literally only use once. The problem I had with it was that you have to be able to pound a nail in STRAIGHT! I'm not able I guess. I'll post some photos of what I tried and ended up doing. I'm calling he nails in the board "the prototype". LOL So when the nails in the board method didn't work for me I decided to make the tool. I called a guy that has steel and drops etc. I went over there and as we were trying to decide on what to make the base out of I kind of jokingly mentioned that someone had used rivets and it worked for them. He said, "3/16" rivets?" he reached into a container three feet away and grabbed one and said, "these?" and it went in, sat flush and other than the nail poking out of the back end it was perfect. It took me a few minutes to cut the nails and grind them flush but when I got done it worked perfectly. I mean I just popped them in, flipped it over on a small 2x4, 4 inches long so there was weight on the rivets, put the springs and rollers in and first shot the hub went in and I was done. Even if making the part went perfectly smooth I would have had a bunch of time into it. I did some horse trading with him, I had some aluminum plates that I believe retain and engine in a power hone machine. I gave them to him and he was going to give me what ever I needed to make it. I ended up leaving with 12 rivets. I guess I got a crappy deal huh? LOL He gives me stuff all the time so I return the favor. Sometimes I come out ahead, and sometimes he does. Anyway, this ended up going super simply, with a handful of simple, cheap rivets. Check it out.... Thanks, Wayne (cannot pound a nail straight.jpg) (this won't work.jpg) (IMG_20201026_211344.jpg) (Too easy...that'll never work.jpg) (IMG_20201026_214333.jpg) (OMG first try.jpg) Attachments ---------------- cannot pound a nail straight.jpg (60KB - 200 downloads) this won't work.jpg (84KB - 196 downloads) IMG_20201026_211344.jpg (46KB - 194 downloads) Too easy...that'll never work.jpg (42KB - 198 downloads) IMG_20201026_214333.jpg (68KB - 195 downloads) OMG first try.jpg (81KB - 202 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13045 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Very smart - need is the mother of invention. When I made the wooden tool I pre-drilled the holes with a bench drilling machine to get the nails straight and then just aligned the square sides to fit the best for to keep the rollers in position. Below some pictures of my home made TF A466 tools, just what's needed to rebuild the transmission. The center on the sprag clutch tool ensures that the tool cannot move, which ensures that the springs and rollers are safely kept in place. The spring compressor has jaws that are adapted for both the front and the rear clutch, just turn the jaws and change the center piece (IMG_3540-rez.jpg) (IMG_3541-rez.jpg) (IMG_3542-rez.jpg) (IMG_3543-rez.jpg) (IMG_3544-rez.jpg) (IMG_3545-rez.jpg) (IMG_3546-rez.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_3540-rez.jpg (184KB - 198 downloads) IMG_3541-rez.jpg (181KB - 200 downloads) IMG_3542-rez.jpg (227KB - 202 downloads) IMG_3543-rez.jpg (221KB - 197 downloads) IMG_3544-rez.jpg (133KB - 197 downloads) IMG_3545-rez.jpg (104KB - 200 downloads) IMG_3546-rez.jpg (193KB - 198 downloads) | ||
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| Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3393 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | |||
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