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58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | I am still a fairly new member here, I joined asking for help looking for a '58 Plymouth. Well, now I have finally found one! This has been a very long time dream car of mine, ever since I watched Christine as a kid, right then, I said to myself, I'm going to own one of those someday. I bought this '58 Belvedere 2 door hardtop from John at Big M on Friday the 13th (yes, I know!). The car was last running in the '80s, then I guess an abandoned restoration then parked. The car is original, numbers matching, and rust free. John did have her running, but I still need to drain some very stinky bad fuel out before I will try to fire her up. She has a 318 poly with the torqueflite pushbutton automatic. My restoration plans for her is that she's not going to be a Christine, sorry, but I feel that its time for some variety. But instead, a very cool '60s custom hot rod. I planned on red and black paint (black top, black stripe) and probably go with some metallic and pearl in it. The interior is going to be black and red tuck n roll. Wheels, I'm going to go for those 5 spoke Cragars, what was most popular in the 60s. Here is some photos of her now. (DSCN1195.JPG) (DSCN1196.JPG) (DSCN1197.JPG) (DSCN1198.JPG) (DSCN1200.JPG) (DSCN1202.JPG) (DSCN1206.JPG) Attachments ---------------- DSCN1195.JPG (231KB - 356 downloads) DSCN1196.JPG (215KB - 361 downloads) DSCN1197.JPG (221KB - 343 downloads) DSCN1198.JPG (225KB - 331 downloads) DSCN1200.JPG (182KB - 330 downloads) DSCN1202.JPG (186KB - 352 downloads) DSCN1206.JPG (218KB - 357 downloads) | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Not sure how to post photos... Said that they have to be under 500kb??? | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | 250kb Congratulations on finally getting that '58 Belvedere you've always wanted. Sounds like it will be a sharp car. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | How is the best way to downsize photos? | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | I struggle with this too. On any Windows machine, you can use MS Paint which has a really simple Resize operation. I'm sure there is something simple on an iOS machine as well. On my Samsung phone, I actually had to download an app to do it. Crazy. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | 57burb - 2018-04-17 12:17 PM I struggle with this too. On any Windows machine, you can use MS Paint which has a really simple Resize operation. I'm sure there is something simple on an iOS machine as well. On my Samsung phone, I actually had to download an app to do it. Crazy. Thank you, I tried that, hopefully you can see photos. | ||
Paul Hettick |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 705 Location: California | I bought that car in 1982 and drove it daily for a few years. I had paid 300.00. For it ran like a top and not a spec of rust. Good luck. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | on Windows I use Paint.net its a nice photo editing software package and free. https://www.getpaint.net/ nice car and clean, hah I bet you sold it for more than 300$ we all get lucky sometimes... | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | Congrats Jackie,,, Looks a great Solid project ,, Looking forward to its Build.. | ||
SavoyPlaza |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1172 Location: Georgia | Good score Jackie! Looks like a fine car, thanks for sharing with us--looking forward to the progress! Pete | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I recognize those fenders .... | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Paul Hettick - 2018-04-18 11:53 AM I bought that car in 1982 and drove it daily for a few years. I had paid 300.00. For it ran like a top and not a spec of rust. Good luck. REALLY?! Wow, awesome to be in contact with the previous owner! You're kidding that you only paid $300 for it?! Please let me ask you a few questions about the car. Do you know any of the ownership history? Were you the one that sold it to a Mark L.? (then he later sold it to John) Was she converted to a '57 before, or after you had it? Just trying to figure out how long its been like that, as it does have '57 holes drilled in rear, and I'm guessing those green fenders are 57s. Thanks. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Doctor DeSoto - 2018-04-19 2:16 AM I recognize those fenders .... Really, why? | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Forgot to post this from the start, just a little video taken when she was still at John's showing that she does run. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2JNwR2JjzM | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | 58Jackie - 2018-04-17 11:11 AM How is the best way to downsize photos? go to "paint", look for size, change percentage to get the required bytes. click save. and it should show you the change. if not correct; change the percentage up or down from that, then save again. Marc. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | It's a smart thing to get a video of it running. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | My car is mostly complete, but here is a list of the parts I still need. If anyone can help me out getting the parts, that would be awesome. Thank you. Exterior: Stock mirrors (outside) Fin caps, both sides ('58) Front center top valance panel (between bumper and grille) Rear valance panel (under bumper) Interior: Trim over ashtray ('58 star pattern please) Long dash chrome trim (over glovebox) Rear window crank handle Passenger side door panel metal armrest base Door panel top metal rails (both sides front, passenger side rear) Thanks, just let me know what you have that you'd be willing to part with. | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | I have a pair of exterior stock mirrors for your '58 I has the hardware and the other does not I got them this way if You want them I will sell them for $100 for both plus shipping if not that is OK too. | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | I will try to up load the photos of the mirrors. No Luck I will try again later my upload is being a PITA Edited by 1961plymouthfury 2018-04-22 10:09 PM | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | 1961plymouthfury - 2018-04-22 8:55 PM I will try to up load the photos of the mirrors. No Luck I will try again later my upload is being a PITA Thanks Stephanie! What type are they, the ones with the tall base or the other ones? | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Tail base 1s I believe. There are times I wish I grabbed a '58 plymouth instead of a '61 . my dad said the body would of been easier to work on. Watch the ethanol in fuel before you fuel up I would also keep a bottle of lucas ethanol treatment in the car with me in case I need it. These are the fender mirrors I was telling you about. Edited by 1961plymouthfury 2018-04-28 4:30 PM (001.jpg) (003.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 001.jpg (129KB - 335 downloads) 003.jpg (129KB - 338 downloads) | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | 1961plymouthfury - 2018-04-28 12:54 AM Tail base 1s I believe. There are times I wish I grabbed a '58 plymouth instead of a '61 . my dad said the body would of been easier to work on. Watch the ethanol in fuel before you fuel up I would also keep a bottle of lucas ethanol treatment in the car with me in case I need it. These are the fender mirrors I was telling you about. Thanks, I sent you a PM. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | So I have been bitten by the hot rodding bug once again. I will most likely end up putting a 440 in this car. Can anyone please help me out with fitment details and any front end mods that I may have to do? Thanks. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | Good to see you here, Jackie!! ---John | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Do you plan to drive this car ? How are you set up for funding ... trust fund, born into royalty, well paid gigolo ? Because that 440 is going to have you filling up 4x as much at the current $3-a-gallon than you will with a B-block or 318. I love my go-fast 440-powered Coronet, but even with A LOT of thought and money spent to lean out the fuel consumption, the 440 is just too large-lunged to do any better than maybe 14mpg, and you can tank that to 4mpg if you like to leadfoot it. So, it sits. Even my 1 ton truck gets better mileage than the old Coronet ! The 440 is a great engine. Don't get me wrong. I would just caution anyone considering one to really think through what they want to do with a car long term before spending cubic dollars building a 440. I wish I had built a 383 instead. near as much power and FAR greater ability to run with reasonable economy. | ||
Paul Hettick |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 705 Location: California | 318 will do 20+ mpg and give snappy performance. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Here is a little something-something about performance 318 polys: https://cpwebstore.com/Poly https://www.facebook.com/polysuperpac/ http://www.hotrod.com/articles/426-cube-318-poly-can-outgun-hemis/ http://www.hotrod.com/articles/strange-v-8-make-power-with-chrysler... http://www.hotrod.com/articles/vintage-mopar-power-550hp-chrysler-p... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WL35IBm2ws http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2015/10/this-might-be-more-than-inc... http://www.enginelabs.com/news/video-sam-engine-masters-challenge-c... http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/poly318.html http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0110-how-to-give-a-318-poly-eng... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/318-poly-stroker-kit-402... http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/poly-graphics.htm http://www.moparchat.com/forums/performance-talk/75889-318-poly-402... https://www.camcraftcams.com/catalogs-links/318-chrysler/ http://www.performance-mopar.com/index.php/content/1-cppa (repeat?) http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1783697/r... http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=47515 | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | The tech for making those little 318 Poly's scream has come a long way in the past 10 years, AND they'll still hand out great fuel economy. The 440, as much as I have tweaked it to go long on gas mileage, just cannot get past it's massive displacement (air movement) that requires fuel to make it work. Sure, it will melt down a perfectly good pair of tires on command, even with my high gearing and internal mods, but 14mpg is about as good as it gets on the open road in 0.70:1 "overdrive" through 3.23's. To take it the 300 miles to Seattle for an event means dropping $200 down the filler neck to make the trip, maybe more if I don't lightfoot it all the way. To my thinking, this really puts a damper on my enthusiasm to take this car anywhere. I'd love to drive it down the coast to L.A. with the top down, but I'd need a trust fund or serious lottery win just to pay for the gas. The DeSoto, with 361, 4bbl, 2.91 gears, 906 heads, and a tweaked cam pushes that 5400 tub of iron nearly 20 miles for every gallon down the tube. I'd be chatting Jim Rawa up (there are others) about building 318's. They can do amazing stuff and not take a railroad tanker full of gas just to get you to the event. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | big m - 2018-05-05 9:53 AM Good to see you here, Jackie!! ---John Hi John! Yeah I'm here on the other finned mopar site, more info I can get the better. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Paul Hettick - 2018-05-06 10:04 AM 318 will do 20+ mpg and give snappy performance. How much mpg did you get out of it when you used to own her? I do know that has got to be the most tiny 2 barrel carb I've ever seen, so probably pretty good mpg? | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Ok you guys have me sold for the time being on fuel mpg. This definitely wont be my daily driver, but I'd still like to take her out on some fun road trips once I get her road worthy. I am going to try to fire her up (with the original powertrain) here shortly after I get done going through the fuel, motor fluids, etc. I may have to go through the brakes as well as they act like they're locked up. After I do that, I can better answer if I will have to do a complete rebuild on it. If I do have to rebuild, I will be wanting to put some performance parts in her, just so I can still have some fun, even without big block 440 power. So help with that would be appreciated. Also, if I do decide to keep the 318 in (results from starting her up will answer that), can I bolt up a aftermarket auto tranny in (727)? Not looking to keep the pushbuttons in, as we do have some mountains here where I live, I don't need my car to start driving herself down the hill when I park her in N... Even with the E brake, I have my doubts, as I already found out she does roll well in N with no E brake set. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Your car already has a 3 speed TorqueFlite in it (assuming from the 5 push buttons on the dash), that is a good start. Having a true first gear at 2.45:1 ratio gives you better acceleration versus the 1.69:1 (or 1.67?) gear ratio of a 2 speed PowerFlite. It will also allow you to run a lower gear ratio in the rear for better economy. Consider the examples below. My 1960 Plymouth had a PF and 3.31 gears, so overall ratio in 1st gear is 1.69x3.31=5.59. Final drive is obviously 3.31 Let say your car has 2.94 gears, that would give you an overall 1st gear ratio of 2.45x2.94=7.20. Significantly lower ratio to get the car moving, yet lower final drive ratio. Now lets say you have 2.76 gears, now you're first gear is 2.45x2.76=6.76. Still much better launch ratio than a PowerFlite car. I don't know what gear ratios came in the Plymouths with TF, but just about any gear ratio will out perform a PowerFlite car in both economy and acceleration. If you want to get into overdrive, you have two basic options. One, find an original 3 speed manual with Borg Warner overdrive. This would be tough to find and a lot of work, but everything would "bolt up". Two, get an adapter kit and connect a modern overdrive auto to the engine. The trans tunnels one these cars are fairly huge, so you probably don't need to make more room. Then you need to modify cross members, linkages, drive shaft, parking brake and so on. This is also a lot of work, so your best bet might be to maximize what you have. Keep in mind that your 318 is good for 230 hp and over 300 foot-pounds of torque (with a 2 barrel carb), those are not bad numbers, and the TorqueFlite is a great transmission. | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | I am not sure about the after market transmission bolting on You can give it a try but would keep the original motor and transmission in the car. You can put a 1 of those 2x4 s in front of 1 of the tires of the car and that should stop it from rolling. If the E brake needs to be replaced call Andy Bernbaum he might have a kit its worth a shot. I have a suggestion on the color of the car how about black and red The top black between the chrome black and the rest of the car red. I was going to repaint my '57 Savoy that way but it never happened because of the a**hole causing me to total her back in '87 | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Thanks for the info about the tranny. Why I have my doubts against it is cause a while back I was wanting to see how well it went into all the gears. I am not sure if this is a typical problem with the pushbuttons, but they got stuck behind the trim piece when I put it into gear. I tried, theoretically speaking, that it would "pop back out" once I selected another gear. Nope! It proceeded to have that gear stuck as well. I then tore it apart and found why the buttons were stuck. It seems that the plastic buttons simply slide onto the metal shift linkage. With the force of the shifter popping the button back out as you select another gear, the button gets flung right off of the shift linkage, and then falls down and jams up behind the trim piece. I watched this happen when I had taken off the trim piece and went through the gears. Is this a common problem, and how is the best way to fix it? Glue the buttons to the shift linkage or what? | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Your buttons may be broken, but a good disassembly, cleaning, light lubing and reassembly might be best. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | jboymechanic - 2018-05-16 10:44 PM Your buttons may be broken, but a good disassembly, cleaning, light lubing and reassembly might be best. No, I don't believe that they're broke unless there is supposed to be clips holding the buttons on the shift linkage better. As what it looks like, they're only held onto the shift linkage by simply sliding onto it. It only did this once, but I was just worried about it happening again when I have her on the road. I don't exactly want to pull over on the side of the road and re-install the buttons each time they decide to pop off the linkage, doesn't sound fun! Is there any good solution? Maybe glue them on? | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | this will show were you can get ethanol free gas. https://www.pure-gas.org/ A texaco is closest to you but its 87 but with as car like that I would burn 93 Edited by 1961plymouthfury 2018-05-17 5:53 PM | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | 1961plymouthfury - 2018-05-17 4:47 PM this will show were you can get ethanol free gas. https://www.pure-gas.org/ A texaco is closest to you but its 87 but with as car like that I would burn 93 Thanks. I already have a regular fill up station here in town that is ethanol free that I use for all my cars. You think that the poly would run best on premium? | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | I have been doing a lot of detail work to her, making her look nicer. Here is some photos to show. Now that I've got her looking better, I am now working on trying to get her running. I've already cleaned up the motor compartment and removed all the rat turds. Hopefully this weekend I will get new hoses on, fresh oil in, flush out the radiator along with the fuel tank (may have to drop the tank to properly clean it), then (fingers crossed) she fires up. (DSCN1235.JPG) (DSCN1237.JPG) (DSCN1238.JPG) (DSCN1241.JPG) Attachments ---------------- DSCN1235.JPG (162KB - 330 downloads) DSCN1237.JPG (158KB - 328 downloads) DSCN1238.JPG (149KB - 324 downloads) DSCN1241.JPG (206KB - 320 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | Looks 100% better!!Nice job! | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Good luck you also might want to change the plugs, wires and points . You might want to consider converting to electronic ignition Edited by 1961plymouthfury 2018-05-23 5:03 PM | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | big m - 2018-05-23 3:06 PM Looks 100% better!!Nice job! Thanks John! | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | 1961plymouthfury - 2018-05-23 3:52 PM Good luck you also might want to change the plugs, wires and points . You might want to consider converting to electronic ignition Yep, I know for sure the wires as the protective silicone is gone in spots. As for the distributor, I know for sure she ran when John had her, so I'm going to try to fire her up with the stock equipment. I do plan to convert over to a better ignition system later though. | ||
58Jackie |
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Veteran Posts: 123 Location: Southern Idaho, USA | Well, here is some bad news as far as getting her running. I ran into some REAL BIG problems. When I replaced the old hoses on the motor, I found some bad rust residue inside them (and falling out in rust flakes). As I removed the upper radiator hose, the water neck was very rusted and eaten through at the top. There was so much rusty stuff on top of the thermostat that you couldn't see it. When I cleaned it out, I pulled the thermostat. More rusty stuff inside the motor. NOT GOOD!! I then decided that it would be a good idea to flush out the radiator and block before going any further. I first flushed out the radiator, and found out some bad news as it leaks down by the bottom seal. Ok, bad, but not as bad as what I found out about the block... Now, time to flush out the block. I did this by flushing out the water passages. Pouring water down the water neck hole, hopefully it would come out the outlet of the water pump. Key word= hopefully. No, where did it come out. Here is the bad news. It turns out that I have more than one open freeze plug hole. When I poured water down the water neck hole (inlet), i found all the water hitting concrete from the rear of the block, passenger side. Freeze plug hole. There is another freeze plug hole that i can see open at the front of the block, drivers side. There is at least 2 open freeze plugs, maybe more. Why?! I have no idea. All i know is this motor needs to be pulled to get to them. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | The freeze plugs either popped out when the block froze or rusted away and fell out. You have a video of it running? I didn't. I was working on my car anyway so I removed my left fender and exhaust manifold to get to my trouble spot. Edited by mstrug 2018-06-11 6:57 AM | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | You would be probably be better off taking down the motor and rebuilding it. I would probably do the same with the transmission | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Freeze plugs can be got at with the engine in, but it is hard (I did this on my dodge) There isn't much room and you will need to remove the engine mounts and other bits and pieces I used 2 hammers to reinstall the new plugs, 1 was an old claw hammer that I had to cut the claw off to make the head shorter The engine meeds to be jacked up a bit to give room and buy more than 1 set, so if 1 or more pop back out, you have spares to put back Good thing is, they are cheap. I also found that the steel ones were better than the stainless steel ones (they kept popping out) Have fun, its an awkward, messy uncomfortable job, but unless you really want to pull the engine, I wouldn't | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Just read the rest of it, I wish you well with your project As for the engine choice, the 318 can look pretty nice without it costing "too" much (nothing cheap about this era mopar) and go well enough to satisfy most urges If you want to be the fastest car on the street, thats a whole new can of worms The trans should be ok, but may need resealing (fatsco have all the seals in a kit) as for the buttons, go buy some felt and make new seals that go around the buttons, its the seals that stop them falling off. This engine was basically a stock build except for a very mild cam, the 2x4 set up and electronic ignition (Engine 2613 001s.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Engine 2613 001s.JPG (103KB - 315 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Don't be discouraged, your engine is telling you it's time to be cleaned out. This should be viewed as a good preventative maintenance exercise. Thoroughly flush the block while poking around inside the block with a long screw driver, you will be impressed by the amount of crap you get to fall out. Keep flushing and poking until the water comes out clear (at least mostly). Then fill it up with coolant and rust inhibitor and you'll have piece of mind. | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | I ran premium in my poly 318 before that I was running low grade so 1 day I decided to try premuim and it ran a lot smoother. I always run a higher octane fuel in my classic cars. I ran it in my '57 Plymouth, my previous '61 fury and plan to run it in this '61 . Edited by 1961plymouthfury 2018-06-12 2:51 AM | ||
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