Re: IML: Overheating Problem

["Robin Giesbrecht" <robings@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

You can try a lot of things but....I just pulled the engine on my 72 for a 
number of reasons, none too serious but added all up it was time. One thing 
I found was two frost plugs had been leaking( one head plug and one block 
plug) Always wondered why it used coolant. Second thing I found was several 
of the passages for coolant flow from head to block were completely blocked 
off with rust and scale. Very strong combination. Could not have been good 
for cooling system. Not trying to say you have to pull your engine down but 
after almost 40 years there are probably some build ups. I know the only way 
to get those blocked passages opened up on this engine was with a hammer and 
chisel. Timing chain was also shot as was #4 cam bearing which was the real 
reason the engine came down. Also found two exhaust valve seats badly 
recessed. It is going back together now with  a set of reworked 1977 400 
heads which have hardened exhaust seats, brass frost plugs, mild perf cam, 
roller timing chain, new rings, bearings, seals, oil pump, windage tray and 
paint.

Robin Giesbrecht
72 Imperial


> From: "Mark Martin" <1966.newport@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: IML: Overheating Problem
> Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 23:23:19 -0700
>
> Firestone, SNAP, and several other companies make coolent flush products. 
> You'll need to get a new thermostat and gasket (of if your thermostat is 
> new just get a new gasket) and a flush kit (less than $10 at any parts 
> house). the flush kit has a t-fitting that goes inline in your heater core 
> return line (i'd recomend buying a 3' piece of hose to use instead of 
> cutting your stock one in half) The t-fitting is threaded to accept a 
> garden hose and it also comes with a spigget that attatches to the top of 
> your radiator which you can attach a hose to and run to a drain or bucket.
>
> My directions are this, REMOVE THERMOSTAT (most overlooked part of this 
> process) install t-fitting and spigget, get in your car and turn the heat 
> on, attach hose and turn on water, let run for a few minutes, then start 
> car (with water running) and run for a minute or 2. Turn off car, turn off 
> water, drain water, replace thermostat, replace heater hose (you can leave 
> that t-fitting in but it sure is tacky...they're usually bright yelloy) 
> replace antifreeze, BE COOL. If all else fails stick lit a rag in the 
> filler neck and push it off a cliff. Then, sell the video to NBC and buy a 
> new car
>
>
> (pay no attention to me, I'm tired. Good night)
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Eric Nelson
>   To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>   Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 6:48 PM
>   Subject: IML: Overheating Problem
>
>
>   Help,
>
>   My '67 keeps overheating.  I've diagnosed the problem all summer and 
> tried different solutions none have cured the problem entirely.  I now 
> beleve that there is too much rust and sediment in the block to allow for 
> efficennt engine cooling.
>
>   My question to the group is... how do I flush the block and is there 
> anything I can put in the coolant to loosen up the rust?
>
>   thanks
>
>   Eric




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