Hi all. Eeeeek! Talking about 413's - I hate that
feeling when you
are torting up bolts and they go all floppy on you.
May just have
stripped the thread on the second to bottom intake
manifold bolt on
the 413. Does anyone know if the thread on these
goes through to the
inside of the heads? Or do the bolts bottom out? I'm
probably now
looking at ripping the head off and re-threading the
bugger but I'd
live to know if that muck is falling into the
tappets?
I've added air to a non-air factory car here so
this could be part
of the problem, all the extra hardware bolted onto
the intake
manifold and heads that were not set up for it?
Someone out there
might have a head off or apart and be able to look
for me?
cheers,
Luke
1960 Le Baron
On 17/06/2006, at 4:18 PM, Dick Benjamin wrote:
Hello, Robert;
I don’t think there is a big difference in using
20W50, rather than
SAE30W,
especially in the colder months. Considering your
climate, I think
I would
just switch to the 20W50 and use it without worry.
It should provide
adequate lubrication for startup, the only better
thing to do would
be to
install a pre-lube system (which runs an auxiliary
oil pump to
circulate oil
before starting), but even that won't help the
cylinder wall wear
caused by
startup, because the cylinder walls are lubricated
by spray from the
rotating parts. Also, during cold startup, you
are running a much
richer
mixture, so there is some inevitable dilution of
the oil with raw
gas -
that's another reason to make sure the engine is
thoroughly warmed
up each
time you start it.
Dick Benjamin
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Rob van
der Es
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:28 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Two questions about the 413
engine of a 1960
Imperial
Hello Dick,
Thanks for your very clear answers! (as always a
joy to read!!)
I am glad my message survived a quick death from
your delete key LOL
Yes, I must admit I have had the bad habit in
making short test drives
last year (because the car was registrated at that
time, so I have
to made
illegal short runs to sort things out..) so it
might be wise to change
that oil even if it has been used for only 500
miles or so.
I am not planning to drive (or even start) the car
with
temperatures below
32F, so I think I will be safe with SAE30.
But ofcourse I can use 20W50 too, do you think it
has any benefits
to use
this grade?
I can imagine that a 20W50 is easier to crank
around in an cold engine
then a straight SAE30, so lubrication with a 20W50
will be better
at cold
starts then?? You see, I have always learned that
a cold start will
put
the most stress on an engine!
Anything you can do to make the lubrication during
cold starts the
best
will pay off in the end, so I have been told.
Thanks also for your suggestions with regard to
the pre-ignition
setting,
I have set it back to its former setting (16
degrees BTDC) and I am
very
happy with it! So at the moment I will leave it
there.
And yes, these cars are a delight to drive around
town ..
Not only for the headturning power, but also for
the overall feel of
quality. The 727 is the best automatic gearbox I
have ever
experienced,
even a new Mercedes doesn´t shifts that smooth!!
And throttle response is that good that you
sometimes think that
you are
driving a much lighter car!!
Thanks again,
Robert
Op Vr, 16 juni, 2006 3:20 am, schreef Dick
Benjamin:
I just returned from vacation, and found about
200 IML messages on my
e-mail, most of which died a quick death under my
"delete" key,
but this
one did catch my eye.
On the oil change question, the reason to change
oil is from
contamination caused by starting the engine many
times, especially
if it
is not run long enough to evaporate all the
moisture that
condenses into
the oil. If the engine has always been
thoroughly warmed up by
driving it
10 miles or so, it
is safe to change it every 1500 to 2000 miles
even if this takes
more than
a year. However, if it has been started and
stopped without a
thorough
warm up, I'd change it and the oil filter now,
and then avoid this
type of
operation in the future.
As for the grade of oil, SAE30W was recommended
when the car was new,
unless the temperature was expected to be below
32F the next time
the car
was to be operated. In your climate, if you feel
you might want
to use
the car when it is below freezing when you start
it, I think it
is OK to
use 20W50 your car, in fact you can use that year
round. I would
not use
the 10W40 or 10W30 that is becoming so common now
in that old an
engine.
Note that
SAE30W does not mean "poor quality" oil or "non
detergent" oil. Many
older Diesel engine and high performance engine
manufacturers
recommend
using this oil, and premium grade oils in this
grade are usually
available
in heavy equipment supply houses. Using a Diesel
rated
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