Please see comments inserted between sections of posts.
> > They have 360's rated at 300 hp and 380 hp, and they
> > come with warranties. I think the 300 hp version is
> > around $3000,
People, please keep in mind these ratings are based on the old 60's gross
standards. The reason is simple. Most "gearheads" that buy these engines
think in terms of the 60's, so the bigger the number is, the more likely
people will buy them. The 135 hp rating of the stock 318 was "net".
>The 360 would add a little performance, so long as you opened-up the
>special EFI intake manifold ports to 360 size vs. 318.
I am not sure how feasible that is. When you change the geometry of the
intake system and the total engine displacement, the total air flowrate of
the engine for a given rpm/MAP is changed. So, the stock look-up tables
are now way off. Some EFI systems have some "learning" potential, but this
is a big change that such an old system may not be able to "learn". Even
if it kind'o runs, chances are the emissions performance will not be good
enough. DB will know more about the learning abilities of these old systems.
>Dumping the 2.20 axle will do a lot more for low-end grunt anyways.
Now, this is a great suggestion. Reducing the gear to say, 3.23 or 3.55
will actually help performance throughout the speed range. 2.20 is a
horrible gear selection if you are interested in performance. If these
cars have a 4 speed with OD (don't know), you will still maintain some
descent cruising. In fact, you may be able to climb hills on high gear
that may have not been possible before.
Now, for those really determined to make a hot-rod out of an 81-83 and
willing to spend lots of time and $ on the process, could consider the
following: Add a supercharger! These low compression engines with tiny
cams are ideal for supercharging. If the blower clutch is disconnected at
part load, the system will operate just like the stock system did, and
still pass smog inspection. They never test emissions at WOT as far as I
know. Then, the EFI will have to be somehow programmed to provide extra
fuel when the manifold gauge pressure is positive. There may be ways one
can achieve that. On the other hand, if you really need a hot-rod
Imperial, it may be cheaper and far more effective to just buy a 68!
D^2, 2x68s
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