I would like to add that it may be better to retain the original size &
shape of the end of the tube where it first goes into the block (that will
make it a lot easier to get it started back in there).
A better method might be to take a couple of small bolts, and with them and
the end of the dipstick tube in a vise, - just "squeeze" the end that is
supposed to be a tight fit in the block, - and just put a couple of small
dents in it, - a short distance from the very tip, - that way the tube will
only get "tight" in the block *after* it has been started into the hole. If
necessary (just in case you get a little "carried away" using the vise), -
you may have to go back and make the very end of the tube "round" again, -
just don't "flare" it any.
Works for me.
Regards,
DaveG.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoNort@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Where's my dipstick?
> Bill,
> I'm not that familiar with your engine, But I have had that same problem
with other cars I've owned. The tubes on those cars were just pressed in the
hole. The fix i used was to carefully insert a tapered punch in the lower
end of the dip-stick tube. Taking a light hammer driving the punch into the
tube to flare it a bit. Then reinstalling it into the engine.
> George
>
>