Yes, you would definitely have to bleed the cylinders all over again, but at
least you'll have peace of mind knowing that your M/C is in proper working
order.
There is one caveat about pumping the brake pedal on a M/C that has been
operational for some time. You don't want to pump the pedal all the way to the
floor board since it forces the piston of the M/C to bottom out in a region of
the bore where there is corrosion. This can damage the seal causing it to leak
through.
There are some great archived articles about this on the Imperial web site
under repairs and brakes.
As far as the emergency brake is concerned, I am not familiar with the way
yours works. My 62 does it entirely different.
Chris M
--- On Wed 07/28, Brian Shea < bshea@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:
From: Brian Shea [mailto: bshea@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 08:44:41 -0500
Subject: RE: IML: Master Cylinder Rebuild Time?
If you remove the line, will you have to re bleed the wheel
cylinders?I<br>replaced the lines on my 66 crown and the car was fine.Now I'm
losing fluid<br>some where and have to fill up the master after a few
days.While we are on<br>the subject of brakes,the emergency brake does not
release automatically<br>either.How does that work?<br><br>-----Original
Message-----<br>From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On
Behalf Of Christopher<br>Middlebrook<br>Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 7:17
AM<br>To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>Subject: Re: IML: Master Cylinder
Rebuild Time?<br><br><br><br>One way to eliminate the master cylinder question
would be to remove the<br>line to it and put a plug in the hole. The M/C
should give you a very hard<br>pedal almost immediately.<br><br>The brakes
being out of adjustment is definitely a factor too.<br><br>I broke down when I
was refurbishing the brakes in my 62 and bought the<br>Motive Products power
bleeder (About 50 bucks). It consists of a gar
den<br>sprayer looking bottle with a pressure gauge, a long hose, and a
cap<br>designed to fit over the M/C. You fill up the bottle with brake fluid,
and<br>pump it up to 10-15 psi. Then you get under each wheel and let the
pressure<br>do the work for you as you loosen up the bleeders. What's nice
about it is<br>that you don't have to mind the M/C since the bottle is feeding
brake fluid<br>under pressure. All you have to worry about is making sure the
bottle has<br>enough fluid in it!<br><br>Chris Middlebrook<br>62 Custom
Southampton<br><br><br><br><br> --- On Mon 07/26, < RandalPark@xxxxxxx >
wrote:<br>From: [mailto: RandalPark@xxxxxxx]<br>To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 09:58:53
-0400<br>Subject: Re: IML: Master Cylinder Rebuild Time?<br><br>This symptom
can mean (among other things) that the brakes need to
be<br>adjusted.<br><br>Paul<br><br>.In a message dated 7/26/2004 6:17:36
AM<br>Eastern Daylight Time, "Dave Ford" <daveford1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:<br><br>>I<br>recently replaced all 6 wheel cyli
nders and brake shoes on my 58<br><br>>Southampton. Brake pedal pumps up to a
good hard pedal and braking is<br>good. <br>> But... my first pedal stroke on
the brake goes way below the<br>pumped <br>>height so I have bled all the wheel
cylinders three different<br>times to try <br>>to eliminate this issue but I
still get the same<br>result.<br>>Is my problem the Master Cylinder? Should a
rebuild/kit<br>suffice?<br>>
Thanks<br>><br>Dave<br>><br>>______________________________________________________________<br>___<br>>Overwhelmed
by debt? Find out how to Dig Yourself Out of Debt from<br>MSN
<br>>Money.<br>http://special.msn.com/money/0407debt.armx<br>><br>><br>><br>>--------------<br>---
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