Re: IML: The '65 is home!

[Brad Hogg <roadhogg@xxxxxxx>]

Having fixed a few horn problems in my day, here's the way I would tackle
the issue...most any electrical issue for that matter.

Work backward.  No, I don't mean face away from the car, I mean, work from
the device back to the control.

1. Apply power to the horn itself to confirm it CAN make noise.  No use
trying to fix a horn system if your horns are shot!
2. If the horn can make noise, move back to the relay.  Apply power to the
control side and see if the horn makes noise.  If it doesn't, can you at
least hear the relay go "click!"?
3. If the relay is ok, move back to the horn switch in the wheel.  If that
doesn't make the horn go, you've narrowed down the issue to something
between the switch and the relay.

Having said that, there are a couple things to keep in mind for horns.  The
column must be grounded.  When you press the horn pad, what happens is, you
are grounding the horn relay.  There is one wire going up to the wheel and
when you ground that wire, the horn sounds.  If there is nothing to ground
to, meaning, the column is "floating" or not grounded, you will get no
sound.

Same thing goes for the horns.  They must be grounded.  If you find that
when you apply power to the horn in testing, and they remain silent, check
the ground first.  Also, get out your test light and see if there is power
going to the horn wire at the horn when the horn pad is pressed.

Often the relay also needs to be grounded.  If the relay fails to even
click, check for ground.  Using your test light, you can also check the
input and output of the relay for ground and power respectively.  Remember
that the input of the relay, the wire coming from the horn pad, will be
presenting a ground signal when the pad is pressed.  To test this with your
test light, you'll have to clip the one end of the test light to a + voltage
source rather than a - ground as you would to check for a +V condition.


Please quote this message in your reply.  Otherwise I will be unable to
reply to your message.  Thanks.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: Clint and Laurie Carter
To: Imperialist
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2005 11:09 PM
Subject: IML: The '65 is home!


Gang~

We picked up the '65 Crown Coupe this morning. Clint drove it home and said
it drives like a dream! He said it misses a little at 85 mph, though. The
power seats work, one window works, and the power rear view mirror works.
But it's so wet inside, the carpet squishes! It stinks, too. The carpet and
the front seat need to be redone.

A few questions:

In order to get the inspection passed, we need to fix the horn. Any tips on
trouble shooting this?

Also, the right glass that covers the headlights has been shattered
(although it's still there). Any leads?

Are the 383/440 valve cover gaskets interchangeable with a 413?

The radio does not work - anyone repair these? It scans and has the floor
switch, but there is no output. Suggestions?

I'm sure we'll have more questions as we tear into it. The seller told us
not to remove the ignition key as the tumblers will fall. Well guess what,
we removed it. Amazingly, the local NAPA here at the end of the world had a
lock and tumbler for a '65 Imperial. We couldn't believe it! Clint says it
looks the same as the one in his '65 Valiant.

Now the kicker - I called our insurance agent (State Farm) to get a quote.
After explaining about Imperial as opposed to Chrysler, asking only for
liability and uninsured motorist, using it as a daily driver and valuing it
for what we paid for it, the quote came back at $6.60 a month! WOW!!

We are really excited!

Clint and Laurie Carter
'59 Crown "The Pink Lady"
'65 Crown Coupe, unnamed as yet...any thoughts?



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