Re: IML: '55 Hard Start

[roger crabtree <rcrabshish@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi list and other 55 owners,
My 55 had set for many years without running.  The
fuel system was full of stuff that had separated in
the gas tank.  I had to take out the tank and have it
hot tanked to clean up the system.  The car was also
very hard to start afterwards.  While having my wife
cranking it over I noticed the gas in fuel bowl was
not churning.  I pulled the fuel bowl and had my wife
turn the engine over.  Gas came rushing out all over
the place.  I replaced the fuel bowl and again it
would not churn like it did when running.  I opened
the filter screen on top of the carb.  The carb was
dry of fuel.  I tapped on the top of the carb thinking
the float was stuck.  The gas again began to churn in
the fuel bowl.  I used some "Sea-foam" fuel additive
on the carburetor to free the float.  It seemed to
work for awhile.  Then a friend of mine (old farmer)
was telling me he used 2 cycle oil in his old cars,
trucks and tractors to keep the carb parts and valves
from sticking.  I started to use Marvel Mystery Oil in
the gas and to this day have had no problems starting.
 Just an idea for your problem. 
RC Billings, Montanaaaaaa

--- RandalPark@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> My '55 was hard to start when I first got it. After
> a tune up (points, plugs, and wires) and timing
> adjustment, the problem disappeared. It now starts
> perfectly, hot or cold. I adjusted the timing by
> trial and error, not with a light. The carb is the
> original, hasn't been rebuilt, and I am sure could
> use it. So far it hasn't caused any trouble. Your
> car would also be difficult to start if the dual
> points aren't set properly, and of course for many
> other possible reasons also. Just a couple of ideas
> to consider. Good luck!
> 
> Paul
> 
> In an email dated Wed, 19 1 2005 2:53:51 am GMT,
> Cebuisle2@xxxxxxx writes:
> 
> >Hello-
> > 
> >My 55 Imp has a hard start when hot problem. I am
> guessing that it might be ?
> >vapor lock from a small amount of gasoline leaking
> into the manifold. Carb is ?
> >always dry after a week or more of non-use and has
> to be primed-car starts ?
> >immediately then. 
> > 
> >I think I need a new carb-to-manifold gasket-the
> old one seems hard and ?
> >compressed. Where can I get one? Is there a
> supplier left with carb ?gaskets? 
> >Would it help to put a couple layers of aluminum
> foil under the carb as ?an 
> >insulator? (cut to the shape of the gasket, or
> course)
> > 
> >A few years ago I was unable to start the car after
> a local meet. No other ?
> >old car owner had a six volt car, so had to take a
> jump start from a 12 volt. 
> >It ?immediately fried my "neutral
> >safety solenoid" although the engine spun like
> crazy and started ?
> >immediately. Couldn't find a replacement. so went
> with a generic switch that ?allowed it 
> >to start in any gear at all. Not a problem if there
> owner is aware of ?the 
> >danger and doesn't forget! Anyway, I have found a
> used switch in a junkyard, ?but 
> >have forgotten how to wire it up! Every combination
> results in the car ?
> >starting in any gear,the safety isn't working. Of
> course, the "new" switch could ?
> >be also fried (for the same reason!!) but I am
> hoping it is good, and my memory 
> > isn't. Can anyone send me the wiring diagram for
> this safety switch? I have 
> >the ?shop manual, but it doesn't show the switch-
> > 
> >I haven't taken the car to a meet since-am afraid
> to shut it off!
> > 
> > ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> > ? ? ?Thanks! ? ? ? TED
> > 
> >
> 
> 
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=====
RC Billings, Montanaaaaaa 

http://www.imperialclub.com/temp/1955/RogerCrabtree/ 


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