There are a few differences among the disc brake master cylinders which can affect pedal pressure and perceived braking force. A power disc cylinder put on a manual system will result in a lower and somewhat "mushier" pedal, but needs less force applied to work the brakes, for example, because it has a smaller diameter bore and piston. The later 2 bolt aluminum and earlier 4 bolt iron master cylinders can be interchanged, basically, so that shouldn't be your problem. You didn't write that you used a disc brake master cylinder, just a "dual" master cylinder, so at the risk of making a dumb sounding and obvious comment, using a dual drum master cylinder will definately result in problems. Then, I might try tweaking the valve some. As far as your use of F body knuckles, there is controversy over that, but it involves alignment issues due to the taller dimension of the F knuckles compared to A knuckles. Mopar Muscle magazine, in the last issue, did a little somewhat-scientific study of the dimensions through the arc of travel, and it appeared to show that the F knuckles could be used in A-B-E bodies with apppriate alignment changes. This wouldn't affect braking force in any case. One other issue, '76 A bodies and the other bodies went to a larger diameter caliper which also figures into the equation of applied force to the pedal v. braking force at the wheels.
Finally, the rear brakes, although only providing a small part of the overall force applied to stop the car, still need to be in good shape and adjusted properly, if they are not, then one typical application of the brake pedal leading to a firm application of the front discs may not fully apply a loosely adjusted or air-filled rear brake system.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana
'56 Chrysler Windsor; '60 Chrysler Saratoga; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart convertible; '65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda FB 340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now 360; '70 Challenger; '72 Cuda '340
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