RE: IML: How COOL is that?

["Tony Bevacqua" <tonysru2@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

On my 300G I found that my gauge was way off calibration.  I had the hot
indications, too, but no boil over, etc.  Got a calibrated gauge from
Carter, sent him my old one.  What a difference!
Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Brad Hogg

Joe.

1.  Yes, it does matter.  A cap with too low of pressure will let the car 
boil over at a lower operating temperature.  A 15 or 16 lb cap should be 
readily available.

2.  I find I can test the thermo-clutch fan by starting the car and allowing

it to warm up at idle.  You should be able to detect the fan increasing in 
speed as the engine gets warm.  The fan will blow much more air past the 
engine when the clutch is engaged.  You should be able to find a replacement

clutch easily.  Measure the length of the clutch from water pump to fan. You

won't have to replace the fan with the clutch.

3.  Dunno.

----- Original Message ----- 
Out joyriding this weekend, I noticed that the temperature gauge was running

on the "hot" side.  This was most pronounced in city traffic.  At highway 
speeds the temp gauge moved back to the left/closer to center.

In working on the car, I replaced the temperature sending unit and the 
thermostat.  I have done no work to the radiator, fan/fan clutch, or the 
water pump.

The car does not boil over or at least it hasn't yet, though I have had to 
add coolant to the radiator from time to time.  Evenso, I have not noticed 
any coolant leaks and all the hoses look and feel good.

Q#1:  I noticed that the radiator cap is a "7 psi pressure" cap whilst the 
FSM indicates it should be a 16 psi cap. (car has A/C).  Do I need to 
replace the cap and does anyone have a source for a 16 psi cap?  What are 
the effects of an improper radiator cap?

Q#2:  The FSM indicates that high temp or overheating at low car speeds may 
indicate problems with the fan drive (clutch, I assume).  I have looked over

some of the archive comments about this procedure but couldn't find anything

about 1961 in particular though there is some good information in the FSM. 
Is the "process" of testing/removing/repairing the fan/fan clutch relatively

the same regardless of year?  Any thing I need to watch out for?

Q#3:  I am having some difficulty finding a water pump for the 1961 Imperial

at parts houses' on-line catalogues.  Is the water pump the same for all 
'60's era Chrysler 413 engines and does it make sense to replace it if it 
hasn't failed (as far as I can tell)?

As always, thanks everyone!

--
Joe
Allen, Texas




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