Yes, block the well with a plate. If for no other reason than you don't want it to fill up with dirt. I don't believe that there is a very good seal there even with the factory choke installation, but why not do it right. Good luck, I think you are on the right track.
This has to do with a '67 440 from an Imperial, in my 300L, that had a Carter AFB for a 383 on it. My cousin said it just didn't run right, so he put a different carb on it (which he kept when I bought it). So.... into the basement I went, looking for the best match - out I came with an AFB 4327 that fits a '67 440 HP that has this disk type choke on it.
It is the stock '67 intake but, the well type choke spring is not there - and if I can get this electric disk hooked up right, I think I have the better choke. Any particular reason to block the "well" if I use the electric choke? There is no vacuum or anything else in there, right?
As far as the secondary lockout goes - I noticed that little lever. So that makes it unable to open the secondaries while the engine is cold? When the engine warms up, there must be some type of linkage that pushes the lockout lever out of the way? It didn't look like the choke rod would do that on this carb - is it supposed to?
I'll check out the Edelbrock website for details. Thanks for the help.
Dan Richardson
-------------- Original message --------------
From: David Whitney <hazegreen66@xxxxxxxxx>
I have the Edelbrock AFB clone on my "lesser" Mopar with electric choke. One lead comes from a field terminal on the alternator, the other attaches to a screw on the outside of the distributor body. I do not know if this is "factory", but it came to me that way and works great. Contact me off list if this is not making sense and I'll give you more details.
I'm willing to bet you have an aftermarket intake manifold as well with no provision for a divorced choke, which would explain the electric one. If not, you should block the hole in the intake with a plate.
You should not need a spring to force secondary opening. If you look at the linkage on the passenger side you'll see one plate from the primary bore pressing on a plate that opens the secondary bore. You can not test this with a cold engine due to the lockout preventing secondary opening when the choke flap is closed. That lockout is on the driver side, so you have to open the flap and pull on the lockout to allow the primaries to force the secondaries open. Could require three or more hands.
The Edelbrock web site has downloadable rebuild instructions with excellent diagrams describing carb adjstments that apply to Carters as well. These instructions are better than the Carter book, which is indispensable in its own right for understanding why carbs work.
Happy motoring,
David
'91 K-Imperial driver
'66 Crown Coupe project
'66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
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