I used a 2X4 and a hydraulic floor jack. Probably also a good idea to use a brace to stabilize the door, but I didn't. I did this on 4 door cars, which have smaller doors that you have, Dan.
Hi All...Has anyone on the IML used a door-support tool of some kind to help
when changing one or both of the door-hinges on their Imperial?? I will be
changing the drivers side hinge soon and wondered if its worth it (or necessary)
to buy on of those 'door support dollys' that i ahve seen advertised by some of
the tool companies on-line. The cheapest one I saw was about $100.00 and you had
to use a floor-jack under it to support the weight f the door. Other types were
as high as $450.00....which is a little much for me unless I was going to be
doing LOTS of doors!!
Thanks all!!
Dan melnik
---- David Whitney <hazegreen66@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
=============
Laurie, there are two excellent books in addition to the indispensable FSM.
How to Rebuild Big-Block Mopar Engines by Don Taylor -- Long on diagnostics so
you waste less time and has lots of good photos.
Big Block 'B-RB' Engines -- Mopar Performance p/n P4876825 -- Long on theory
and explanations with part numbers for ordering.
The most important thing to have if you are a newbie is a friend who is not a
newbie. Try getting in touch with your local Mopar club. At the very least
someone there can point you in the right direction. There are lots of old farts
and some young ones who enjoy doing this kind of work to help keep head-turning
cars on the road. Also find out from the club who in your area is a reliable
and knowledgeable Mopar repair/machine shop. Some stuff you can't do yourself,
so you need someone to take it to.
I don't know how long your engine has sat or how far gone it is. Please do
not start taking parts off until you get the Don Taylor book so you can get an
idea of how much needs to be rebuilt based on the diagnostics in the book.
In addition to the information in the above books, you will likely need to
replace and/or clean all your wiring harnesses/connectors and a good chunk of
wiring. Anything that is rubber should be replaced, not just hoses and belts
but suspension bushings and hood/trunk/door seals, etc. The exception to the
rubber rule is for weatherstripping only -- if you can bring it back with
Leatherique or similar rehydration so it is springy and makes a good seal. If
the weatherstripping has already started to crumble, it's too late.
Unless you need date-matching parts and frivolous expense of that nature,
count on replacing all bolt-on engine accessories -- alternator, carburetor,
starter, power steering pump, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump. Radiator must be
cleaned and pressure tested if not replaced, and the gas tank must be removed
and cleaned. You will need penetrating oil and paint. Lots of paint. And
tools you didn't even know existed.
At some point you will shake the grit out of your hair, look at the grime
under your nails and your depleted bank balance and wonder if it's all worth it.
There is a light at the end of the tunnel. The more you dawdle the more time
you'll spend in the tunnel.
Not trying to put you off your project. The car belongs on the road. But
first it needs to be roadworthy or you will stop loving it as much as you love
it now.
Happy motoring,
David
'91 K-Imperial driver
'66 Crown Coupe project
'66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
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