Re: R-12 to R-134a Retrofit; was Re: IML: Change Over for 1975 AutoTemp
From: Elijah Scott <imperial1971@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 10:49:16 -0700 (PDT)
Steve covers the important points below--I just wanted to add the detail that the receiver/dryer has a low pressure cutoff switch, so if the system isn't fully charged, it won't let the compressor kick on. Briefly jumping a wire across the switch (located at the top front of the receiver/dryer) is a good way to test this problem.
Elijah
"Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Peter: I don't know what you mean by "get up and kick in". If you mean that the clutch is not engaging then you need to find out if the clutch isn't working or if it isn't getting power. If you mean the the compressor is running but not compressing then you have probable compressor issues.
The receiver is the "pop can" in the front. It contains a desiccant bag to absorb any moisture and
acts as a reservoir so liquid refrigerant doesn't get dumped back to the compressor. Anytime the system is opened the receiver should be replaced and you don't want to hook it up until the very last thing right before the vacuum pump is hooked up. The desiccant will suck the moisture out of the air and become saturated in short order if it is left open.
Rebuilt compressors are like rebuilt anything these days... Pretty much Junk. I would get one from the most reputable place you can find and make sure they are local so you can take it back if it fails (they weigh a ton so shipping eats you up quickly). Don't buy a compressor by price. The difference in price is negligible when you consider the cost for refrigerant, dryer (receiver) and labor to do all the work over again if the compressor does not work.
One last thought... if you aren't doing all the work yourself you may want to consider having a
professional provide the parts and install them. That way if the compressor fails they are on the hook for redoing the whole job instead of you. In any event make sure the system is properly flushed before you refill it with your new parts in place.
Steve B.
Peter Thielman wrote: > I tried to get my '71 Imperial "recharged" and the garage put in the > expansion valve but the compressor wouldn't get up and kick in. They > made comment to it needs the compressor rebuilt and a receiver. It > now has a tag on it 134A so I appear to be ready for 134A when I get > the new/rebuilt compressor. But what is a receiver. I think it is > the thing that looks like a pop can in the front of the radiator. Am > I correct. I see from the web sight links to a firm in Texas that has > rebuilt compressors for USD $175.00 that I can get shipped to a friend > in
New York where I can go and install it and then do the Sam's Club > thing for the 134A. Is this process reasonably straight forward as it > sounds or am I over simplifying things again?? > Regards Peter Thielman - Napanee, ON Canada. > > */Elijah Scott /* wrote: > > */Henry Blair /* wrote: > > Check the price of R134a. Now about $8 for 12 ounces. > > I buy it by the case at Sam's Club -- 12 12 oz. cans for $23 plus tax. > > Elijah > > > Imperial Power Window Switch Repair > > > Find Repair & Shop Manuals, Parts Books, History & More at The > Imperial Bookshelf > ! > > > > My Collection of Imperials > > > 1965 Imperial LeBaron
> > 1967 Chrysler Newport Custom Sedan > 1970 Imperial LeBaron > > 1971 Imperial LeBaron > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls > > to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Do you Yahoo!? > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > No virus found in this incoming message. >
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