-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Hey David,
>
> Thanks for your very interesting post!
> Especially the last part of your message make me read it twice :)
>
> You see, I don't believe me eyes too when it comes to set the ignition
> timing. When I bought the car last year I found the initial timing set at
> 16 degrees BTDC...
> When I adjusted it back to factory specs (10 degrees) it runs NOT Ok.
> I experienced a severe power loss so I set it back to the former 16
> degrees setting.
>
> So far so good, but how can I determine the real initial timing that is
> set this way??
> >From previous messages I have learned that the pully with the timing mark
> on it must have slipped (maybe someone can explain how that is possible?)
> on the balancer.
>
> I still haven't found the source for an unstable idle, it is like someone
> is playing with the accelerator pedal all the time (you know, like someone
> that is impatiently waiting for a traffic light). Can this also have to do
> something with the fact that the pulley has slipped at the harmonic
> balancer?
>
> I think a good start will to find the correct timing mark on the pulley
> and to erase the old one.
> What is the best way then to find the EXACT TDC of cilinder 1 ??
> Is there a tool that I can use for this job?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> Imperial Crown 4 door HT 1960
>
>
>
>
> Op Wo, 11 oktober, 2006 11:44 pm, schreef David Whitney:
> > The harmonic balancer is not engine specific IF IF IF IF IF your engine
> > is internally balanced. This is an important conce pt. The '63 big block
> > is internally balanced, as the cast crank was not introduced in the RB
> > engine until nearly a decade later. The 413 passenger vehicle engine was
> > never produced with a cast crank. '70s RVs and trucks, maybe.
> >
> > The rule of thumb is forged crank engines are internally balanced, cast
> > crank engines are external. If you have one of the exceptions in your
> > Imperial, you are already savvy and don't need to be reading this.
> >
> >
> > Externally balanced engines are identifiable by the presence of small
> > blobs of metal near the outside circumference of the balancer. That's
> > how they are "balanced", and there is a relationship between that
> > specific balancer and that specific engine.
> >
> > Balancers do go bad when the rubber starts to deteriorate. The early
> > symptoms look li ke your timing is going bad -- pinging, rough idle, loss
> > of power, technicolor smoke, frogs falling from the sky, etc.
> >
> > A parts book and an interchange manual will steer you toward the proper
> > P/N for your application. There is no reason to refurbish a balancer
> > unless you have a diagnosable psychiatric disorder that is commonly known
> > by its initials. Buy new and be happy.
> >
> > To avoid worrying about your rubber, you can upgrade to a fluid damper.
> > More expensive, more durable.
> >
> >
> > When you change the balancer, you MUST be certain that the TDC mark (the
> > one you use to set timing) is actually pointing to 0 on the plate affixed
> > to the timing chain cover when cylinder 1 is at EXACT top dead center on
> > the COMPRESSION cycle. The most common mistake is getting it 180 degrees
> > out. Having it off by a few degrees will merely make it difficult to set
> > the timing because you won't want to believe your eyes when you see how
> > many degrees initial advance you have.
> >
> > Some of what I have written is merely interesting. The important
> > sentences have words in CAPS. Not abbreviations... words.
> >
> >
> >
> > Happy motoring,
> >
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> > '91 K-Imperial driver
> > '66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
>
>
>
>
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