A simliar situation in my '48 Lincoln Continental resulted from a grounded wire under the dash. In this case, the dome light became brighter as I increased the engine RPMs. At one point, it would go out until the RPMs fell back down to that level. I haven't mentioned this previously because the car is six volt positive ground. Nonetheless, it takes a completed circuit to make the light come on. Once I found the short, the light functioned normally, and so did the rest of the car.
Paul W.
Hi John,
Thanks a lot for your kind suggestion!
I will check the fusebox then to see if something is wrong there.
Might well be the case, cause about the same time my dome light stays on
at half power my wiper motor stopped working...
Might be an coincidence, but who knows?
I will check out the fusebox this weekend!
Thanks,
Robert
Op Wo, 18 oktober, 2006 4:09 am, schreef john sadowski:
> The dome light at half power sounds like a fuse is bad. On my first 63, I
> had an 8 track player mounted directly below the fuses. Well , one day
> the dome light wouldn't go out & it was shining less then full power.
> Opening the doors caused the problem to move to the map light. After
> nearly pulling my hair out, I discovered the bad fuse. I put the 8 track
> back in the same place & it happened again. After the 2nd time, I
> relocated the 8 track & no further problem. John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: richard burgess
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:24 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown
>
>
>
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
>
> Since we're all chiming in on our '60s I thought I would throw in another
> update.
>
> If you have paid attention to the saga, a big milestone has been made. I
> have a brand new correct windshield installed, finally! It's so
> beauutiful. I have most of the stainless back on but of course had one
> of the header clips break. Fortunately I have had parts cars. The trim
> slid around a bit so it took a couple tries to get everything rights. I
> am ready to install the dynamat insulation on the roof and begin
> windlacing installation. I have started installing weatherstripping on
> the doors. I seriously wonder how well these cars were sealed in the
> first place. The original weatherstripping was crushed in many places
> leading me to believe it never quite went the direction it was intended
> even when new. As soon as the headliner goes in I can start on the
> carpet and installing the interior which is already finished.
>
> The engine and transmission have now both been overhauled a second time
> due to botched work the first time. My Dad is coming down next week and
> we are going to get the drivetrain installed. This should all go very
> qwickly as we have now done it once before! I really plan on finishing
> the car sometime next Spring. this is my fourth year in this frame up
> restoration. We are then going to get the front sheetmetal on.
>
> Then the real troubleshootinng can begin. Once everything is hooked up I
> can see what does and does not work. I have laboriously added a factory
> original power lock system from a parts car using the original wiring
> harness and nos transformers. I still need one actuator for the driver's
> door. It will be things like this that I am dying to know if they
> actually work.
>
> It's going to be looking like a car again soon!
>
>
> Richard Burgess
> '60 Crown
>
>
> Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi Donn,
>
>
> Ahhh, the joys of owning and maintaining a 1960 Imperial...
> Been there, done that and as a matter of fact.. Still do!!
>
>
> Isn't it great fun to find yourself under the dash upside down (not too
> easy when you are size XXL :) trying to repair something that is hidden
> there?
>
> Right now I am trying to fix the wiper motor, it suddenly stopped working
> and haven't found out yet what is wrong. Since both the switch and the
> wiper motor are really hard to accesss this aint a job for the faint
> hearted!
>
> Another problem is that the EL dash lighting system from time to time
> fails to work, I have already thrown in a new (=rebuild) power pack but the
> dash still gets dark every now and then (after a few days everything is
> working again for an hour or so..) Must be one of the gauges that is
> shorting out I guess, so in a short time I will finding myself again
> under the dash pulling white leads from the gauges to find out which one
> is guilty.
>
> Then we have the strange problem with the dome-light, it stays on when
> the doors are closed.. And even stranger it shines it's light at half
> power or so. There must be a shortcircuit to ground (and no, the
> doorswitches are ok and so is the manual switch: with all those switches
> disconnected the dome light is still working at half power..) but I
> haven't found out yet where.
>
> I learned from Richard Burgess that there is a connectionpoint under the
> headliner, running from the manual switch to the domelight and then to left
> rear wheel well where it connected to the doorswitches, so problably the
> shortcircuit is in this area...
>
> Apart from all these electrical problems (the electrical system of the 60
> model year isn't of the same quality as the rest of the car if you ask
> me) the car drives beautifully. Running strong and is shifting gears
> perfectly, all I have to do in this aspect is to sort out a rough idle. I
> might be in for a new harmonic damper since the timing mark seems to have
> slipped..
>
> So enough work to do, but it is worth every minute of time that I have
> spend so far to make the car better then it was before I bought it:) It is
> fun, and to see all those faces of people looking at a car that they have
> never seen before...Well, it makes it all worth I guess!
>
> So Donn, keep up the good work and keep it runnin'
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
> Robert
> 1960 Crown 4 door Hardtop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Op Di, 17 oktober, 2006 5:16 am, schreef Donn Reese:
>
>> In fits and starts the Imperial is getting more roadworthy, but good
>> grief is it putting up a fight! Maybe it's just tired and WANTS to go sit
>> in a pasture forever. I've certainly been ready to oblige a couple times
>> recently.
>>
>> The heater fan was making a loud scraping noise and the heater control
>> valve had been bypassed so I decided to pull the heater and at least fix
>> the fan. I was surprised how easy the heater unit was to remove, just
>> three screws. Turns out the plastic housing on the outside face of the
>> squirrel cage had deformed inwards pressing against the squirrel cage
>> itself. I used my heat gun to heat up the plastic then pushed the face
>> out, reforming from a concave to a convex (btw, it's pretty crappy
>> plastic). But it's much quieter now and I didn't have to cut a hole in
>> the housing.
>>
>> With that fixed I removed the heater control valve and (assuming it was
>> just froze up with corrosion) proceeded to lubricate it and get the
>> valve working again. I reinstalled it and hooked up the heater hoses and
>> fired up the car. That's when I found out why it had been bypassed, it
>> leaks. Soooo, I bypassed it again and will have to scout around for a
>> new one.
>>
>>
>> I discovered the cause of the slow turn signals at idle that I reported
>> here recently.....bad flasher. I put a new one in and now it works
>> regardless of idle. Seems strange to me though.
>>
>> Amongst all of this, last week the speedometer started making a
>> horrendous noise and the needle would jump around. The OIC archive came
>> in handy, found the same symptoms there....who would have guessed you
>> have to lubricate the speedo head periodically. Definitely a new one on
>> me. Especially surprising considering they don't make it easy to get
>> any of the instruments out to do any kind of maintenance.
>>
>> I made another little test run down the highway and back and everything
>> seems to be fine for now. Let's hope it stays that way as we're now
>> getting frost at night and working outside is getting chilly.
>>
>> Donn Reese
>> 1960 Custom 4dr hdtp
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
>> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
>> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared
>> with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
>> Administrators
>> should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to
>> http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared
> with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators
> should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to
> http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
> starting at 1¢/min.
----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network