Many posts about oils and additives.
My feelings are that synthetic oils have better lubricating properties and are less susceptible to sludging than dino oils. Some of what you may be losing from the removal of the additives from dino oil can be made up by using a synthetic oil.
Initial break-in after an engine rebuild is usually achieved after generous application of specific break-in lubes to the various wear surfaces which should get you past the very critical first start up.
Every time I start the 440 in my 69 LeBaron after a long rest I make sure that it goes directly to the fast idle and runs there for several minutes. That way you get the maximum oil pressure as soon as possible. Also, since I use synthetic oil I am less worried about the very initial start-up wear.
If someone does find oils with high zinc additive levels could they post the brand(s). It may be worth running a high zinc diesel/synthetic blend.
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hermanns"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: Will any old "diesel" oil do? NO!!!
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 23:32:06 -0500
Key to finding the right diesel oil will be looking for an oil that forgoes
gas engine ratings alltogether. They are out there, though Rotella is not
one of them.
We will likely see a new class of oils in the coming years -- akin to race
oils, these will be what big industrial equipment are now running. These
oils are better for old engines than new oils and it will become more
evident that running an SM (or later) oil is just a death sentence for an
old engine.
What is clear is that JUST looking for a "diesel" oil is NOT going to be
sufficient. You need a diesel oil that is made for non-catalytic engines,
and thus you can forget about gas engine and small diesel engine
applications. Consumer diesel and gas oils are on a converging track.
Indeed, mostly its about the zinc. There are products out there that aim to
boost the ZDDP content, but I hate to mess with chemistry. Most, if not all
oils are pretty well engineered and you are taking chances when you pour in
stuff from different companies (or even different products from the same
company).
It is true that the critical moment is the break in process. Thus, many
older engines will work for a while, maybe a long time, with "modern" oils.
But to suggest that the modern formulations that are designed to spare
catalytic converter life are "superior" to other oils is a fallacy.
Have fun....
dch....
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Rob McCall
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 6:48 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: OIL & Sunoco 94 in PA
Brian,
Sunoco 94 isn't as readily available in PA as it was this time last year.
It looks like they are phasing it out slowly this year. I stopped at Sunoco
out side of West Chester last Sunday to fill my Barracuda, and they had 93,
91, 89, & 87. Previously it was 94, 93, 89, 87. I went for the 93. This
morning I stopped for gas in my Intrepid at a Sunoco in Great Valley and
they still had 94. This was a station with a two bay garage, the other a
mini-mart. Don't know if that makes a difference in what fuel grades they
carry or not. I suspect they will loose the 94 later. I don't know, maybe
it's too costly to make 94 octane with e10, but e85 has a higher octane
rating.
As for wiping cam lobes out, yes I have done it in that Barracuda. However
I suspect it was from floating the valves while drag racing, and possibly
having a defective lifter. I replaced the cam & lifters last winter. Comp
Cams recommend using the Shell Rotella to break in the new cam. Turns out I
have other issues in the motor (I knew I should have pulled it last winter),
so it's coming apart this winter. After the motor is broken in with the
diesel oil I'll probably go back to Mobil 1.
The zinc additives are what has been disappearing from the oils because it
can damage catalytic converters. Not an issue on your Crown, but it is for
the millions of later model vehicles. Hot Rod Magazine did an article
either earlier this year or sometime last year on the oil and wiping cams
issue. Their research looked into several theories (less additives, poorly
made cams and/or lifters, improper cam break-in, etc.) and their research
was inconclusive. They did note that the zinc content in the diesel oils
will be getting reduced over the next couple years, but that race oils are
higher in zinc (and other happy flat lobe additives) than the diesel oil.
They mentioned Quaker State race oil in the article, but I haven't found any
info on it.
Rob McCall
'67 LeBaron - need to address a few things before I worry about the cam
lobes.
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