RE: IML: 73 Ampmeter Gauge

["Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>]

Tim, I wrote back to you the first time you posted this - must have been
about a week ago.  This is what I said at that time - I have no further
thoughts:



>>Sorry, I've been gone for about 10 days to visit family.

The ammeter gauge probably has been bypassed by a wiring mistake - it
appears that it is working, but current is not being routed through it.  The
only way to troubleshoot something like this is to take the wiring diagram
in the FSM and carefully follow the wires that are attached to the ammeter
to see what is connected to the wrong place.

I am surprised that your test light moved the needle, by the way, unless
your test light has a really high power bulb in it - the usual #1895 bulb
wouldn't budge the gauge, I don't think.  That may be a clue as to why the
gauge has been bypassed - namely that the internal shunt may be burned out,
and it has become way too sensitive.   If that is the case, your best bet is
to replace the gauge (or devise a replacement shunt, which I can help you
with), but you still have to find the wiring mistake and correct it to find
out what is going on with the gauge.

If you want to just ignore it, you can do so with no bad effects, you just
will have to pay attention to other signs that your charging system is not
up to snuff.  Probably the gauge sentry system will still work OK to warn
you if there is a problem - you are back to the old idiot light situation,
<<<but still able to use the car.


Dick Benjamin

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Tim Durrer
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2006 2:27 PM
To: Imperial Mailing List
Subject: IML: 73 Ampmeter Gauge

Maybe Dick might have some insight in this. I checked
the website archives but could not come up with my
exact problem.  

My ampmeter is not working. I have 12 volts on both
the back and red wires on the back of the gauge. My
ohmmeter says I have continuity in the gauge. When
connect a test lamp in series with gauge it moves.

So why does it not work connected to the car? 

Connections are correct and tight. This ones got me.
I really would like to know what my 33 year old
alternator is doing, (or not doing)! My voltmeter
shows 14.5 volts at the battery with the engine
running and the headlights brighten when I rev the
engine, so the alternator must be working (for now).

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Tim 

73 Blue Sky

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