Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...and nothing!
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Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...and nothing!



Good grief!

The easiest way to bypass the neutral safety switch is at the relay on the fender, using a jumper to the battery from the terminal to the switch. On 1960 it is the brown wire. I don't know on the others, but it isn't hard to figure out.

I have used this method to find the problem on many of my cars with automatic transmissions. If you can't figure it out, study the wiring diagram.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: hazegreen66@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...and nothing!

Hi, Dan --

This chapter is entitled "How to hot-wire an Imperial". Take a fat flat-blade screwdriver and jump the entire ignition circuit.

1. Place car in neutral. You will be sad if it's in gear and the e-brake is off because the car will take off if the starter turns over. The method I describe bypasses the neutral safety switch. That's why they call it a safety switch.

2. Turn the key to "RUN". You said "START" does nothing. You are engaging the ignition circuit.

3. Using the screwdriver, connect the two terminals at the top of the switch on the bulkhead in the engine compartment, the one to which the battery's hot wire runs.

It may spark, don't let that scare you. If this works, your problem is somewhere between that switch and the hot return back through the firewall from the actual ignition switch.

If this does not work, you have a different problem. Since it appears you have lights and can see a readout on the ammeter, no matter how wrong, you have some current through the firewall to the first four-way split from the hot wire that runs from the bulkhead connector into the cabin.

Make sure the coil connectors are clean and functioning and do the same at the alternator. Check coil resistance (it's in the FSM) and be prepared to replace the ballast resistor. I know you can do this.

With the ignition switch in "RUN", take a voltmeter reading from the positive wire to the starter with the negative probe on chassis ground. You should have battery voltage. If not, you definitely have a problem getting voltage through the ammeter and back out to the starter.



Happy motoring,

David

'91 K-Imperial driver
'66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man

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