Re: IML: 66LeBaron-..DEAD AGAIN!

[<dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi David....the biggest "where is it" question from reading the diagrams was just WHERE that multiple point split-off was located at! (the one from the firewall connector that goes to the ignition switch). When moving things under the dash I may have also 'moved' this connection point but never did find out just where it is!?...by the way, I did relace the ignition switch with a new one since the key-cylinder that was in the car never quite made a 'good' connection...I had to 'jiggle' the key all the time to get the key to turn ON as ell as REMOVE the key!...not ALL the time but most of the times!......while under the dash I was looking for the black box of connections that was a cause of some severe problems (almost a fire!) in an older car I once had. It may (?) be called the 'headlight switch but its NOT the part that goes into the dash panel that you use to turn the lights ON and OFF. This sit up under the dash someplace abd is a connection point for lots of different wires including some of the higher current ones, if I remember right! I thought it was up under the dash just about where the rear of the ignition switch is but didn't see anything like I remember located there....guess I'll just have to keep on searching!...but I definitely do agree that its a LOT better to check everything and find out what really is the problem instead of just moving wires around and hoping the problem clears up.....as others have stated as well, I sure do not want a fire!!!
I'll go thru your suggestions and keep looking for something, or some part, causing this problem....I'll keep you informed!!!!
Thanks again for all your help!!!!
(I am VERY tempted to remove the front seat as you suggest...I'll see how frustrated I get with scrunching up to look under there after a few days!!!)

Dan


---- David Whitney <hazegreen66@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: 

=============
The problem may be hard to trace because the main battery feed wire that runs to the ammeter splits before it gets there and goes to lights and ignition.  Remember, the ammeter runs on reduced voltage.  That wire can't be "stepped up" to feed ignition.  However, a short or ground can have an impact on the other circuits fed from the same source.
   
  Isolation is the key.  When you did the hotwire test, you sent 12v directly to the connector that receives 12v back from the inside of the car through the firewall.  It is fed from the ignition switch.  If you get a 12v reading at that connector, your ignition circuit is working jes' fine.  I rather doubt that it is.
   
  The methodical way is to go from the four-way split to the ignition switch and backprobe if possible or remove the switch entirely if you are intrepid  If you are getting 12v into the switch but it's not coming back out, you know where the problem is.  I suspect something in there is loose or corroded, and the next suspect is the light switch.
   
  But before you do any of that, be certain to check the fuses and the connectors on the periphery of the fuse box.  You may find something very interesting.  It's also a good place to probe when you're tracing circuits and checking voltage.
   
  The '64 system is substantially the same as the '66, and the wiring diagrams you want are at http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1964/FSM/html/08-096.htm and the following page.  Trace R-6 (12 black) from its position F on the bulkhead disconnect inside the car and you see it splits four ways.  Further complicating matters, coming out of the ignition switch the ACC wire Q-2 (also 12 black) splits four more ways when you turn the key on.  As I said, isolation is the key and methodical progression will preserve your sanity.
   
  You already know the starter works.  After checking the fuse box, start by locating the corresponding wire to position F (hot from battery) on the engine side of the bulkhead and backprobe for 12v.  You can also remove the connector and probe the blade (or slot, I can't remember which is which) directly.  This is the opportunity to perform the cleaning I told you about earlier.  Then move inside the car with everything connected again and backprobe position F for 12v (or disconnect and clean as recommended and probe the connector at the firewall, then reconnect and backprobe).  You're on the right road now.
   
  As I said, I suspect you will find the trouble is in the ignition switch or downstream from it, manifesting itself when the key is turned.  Those wires are awfully close together and may be chafed or melted.  Don't let my suspicion stop you from performing the checks I already mentioned first, because you will be doing yourself a favor by reducing the risk of dash/engine fires.
   


Happy motoring,

David

'91 K-Imperial driver
'66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
 
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