Re: IML: EPR vs. ETR Valve

["Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> One of the e-mails states it is necessary to remove
> the EPR valve because it is not calibrated to work
> properly with R-134A and will negatively effect the
> amount of cooling. The car he was referring to does


The EPR valve was only on the early RV2 compressors (my '59 has one but I 
don't think '60 does)  so you don't need to worry about that one.

I converted my '73 with dual air to 134a a few years ago.  I flushed the 
system, replaced all the o-rings, added new oil and filled 'er up.  I found 
that most of the year it worked great.  If I left the car sitting out all 
day in the heat of summer ( I am in Tampa, FL) the air never seemed to be 
able catch up and cool the car but if I parked in the shade I could count on 
there being condensation on the windows before I got home.

If I were doing it again today I would have also replaced the rubber hoses. 
Those hoses are old and 134a runs at higher pressures.  One of my hoses grew 
a bubble near one of the connectors and eventually it popped letting all my 
refrigerant out.

               Steve B. 



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