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Mark- could it be that the drum is 'frozen/rusted
at/behind the wheel lug studs? It recently took me 3 days of several hours each
day to pull a wire wheel on my 72 E-Jag V-12.
The grease on the splines (plus worn splines)
had become like glue and the tapered spline acted like the hub of the center
hole on abrake drum. So your heating the center, but what about the drum near
the lug nuts themselves?
If the wheel spins, then the shoe distance
should be 'OK' as far as pulling the drum.
A few years ago I had a similar challeneg on a
simple drum brake on a Jensen GT. 13" wheels, you'd think no pronblem. Had to
torch for two weeks around the hub 7 the wheel lugs. RUST welding had taken
place.
We had another Jag club member trying to pull a
rear drum on a 50's Mark X. Same challenge as yours.
Took him several months- he had to wait till spring
(vs the winter) before he had success. The tapered hub was his problem. He found
the drum had rusted at the 'hub' as well as around the wheel lug studs. Too bad
you can't put the whole car in a freezer, then heat the drum to help it
'pop'.
I remember a friend having the same challenge in
2001 with a 49 Plymouth drum. He had to torch and cool (with water spray from a
glass cleaner spray bottle) for several weekends before he had success. He
also kept 'tapping' the drum all around while turning it-the idea was to send
vibration to the rust to 'break it up'. Just passing on all the things I've seen
in this arena.
Obviously 'something' is rusted or binding or
sticking- and the challenge is to figure out exactly what it is. keep at
it, don't dispair. We are here to give your moral support!
Sherman
> >From: Mark Battesby
<a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >Subject: Re: IML: 61 Imperial brake drum removal challenge > >Date: Sat, 12 May 2007 23:05:31 -0700 (PDT) > > > >yes the wheel has always spun freely the brakes work also . I put the > >wheel back on and now there is allot of play in the wheel . Im going to try > > driving on it again . I took some advise and heated up the shank untill > >it was glowing hit it with a impact and pounded on it with a big sled > >hammer , still nothing. I am fearful that i will damage the rear end all > >this pounding > > > >"Sherman D. Taffel" <staffel@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: When Clark Thomas & I > >were trying to remove the brake drums on a 62 Imperial > >a few years ago, we also had 'a heck of a time'. We had a huge puller and > >the drum would seem to 'just bind up'. This was after we 'broke it loose. > >Working carefully and thoughtfully we finally got the drum off. What we > >found was that the bonded linings had delaminated from the shoe- and > >'jammed, and were thus 'twisting' as we apllied 'removal force'. > > > >Just mentioning this as a possible factor. When you drove the car and > >braked- did the brakes 'lock' or judder? If so this may be a factor. > >Are you able to 'spin the wheel' (spin the drum on the axle)? > > > >Sherman D Taffel > >63 Crown > >Maryland |
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